Norfolk Birders

                                                                                                                                                             Hawaii                   by Sue Bryan

Jan 30th – Feb 8th  2023

Sue Bryan

 John Geeson

Marsha Lee

John Chappel

Janice Knausenberger

Walter Knausenberger

Introduction

Over the last few years John and I have enjoyed a tropical island holiday taken in the depths of winter to escape the miserable weather experienced in the U.K. so that we could enjoy some sun and warmth. Being birders it is always nice to see some new birds but John and I have now gone beyond just getting a ‘big list’ and have targeted some special birds or mammals. We scoured our usual favourite tour operators to see what was being offered and once again Birding Ecotours www.birdingecotours.com seemed to have an answer. Hawaii has always sounded exotic and a trip on 3 different tropical islands (O’ahu, Kaua’i, and Hawaii (Big Island) seemed ideal. I was drawn by the unusual bird names (most are un-spellable as well as unpronounceable and sadly the endemics are very endangered) and we were both drawn by the possibility of seeing Bristle-thighed Curlew, a difficult to see wader that is even more difficult to see in its Alaskan breeding grounds. Java Sparrow was also on offer as my 45th Brooke Bond Tropical Birds Tea Card collection. The trip offered a pelagic too, an option I love, as well as the Hawaiian chain of island being made up of volcanoes, another passion of mine. The trip seemed to have it all. However it was rather short and John was keen to add extensions at either end to break the journey. We went via the Grand Canyon for four nights, where we had an amazing helicopter ride in the canyon and stopped off at the end of the trip in Los Angeles for 3 nights and the Angeles National Forest.

Guides: Jacob Roalef, Mandy Talpas

Itinerary

30th Jan    Phoenix – Honolulu, O’ahu

31st Jan    Honolulu

1st Feb    O’ahu

2nd Feb    O'ahu – Kaua’i

3rd Feb  Koke’e N.P. Kaua’i

4th Feb  Kapa’a, Kaua’i – Hawaii (Big Island)

5th Feb   Kailua-Kona, Hawaii (Big Island) +Manta Rays

6th Feb Mauna Kea, Hawaii (Big Island)

7th Feb Pelagic – off Hawaii (Big Island)

8th Feb Kailua Kona, Hawaii (Big Island) – Los Angeles

Flights

International flights Heathrow to Phoenix to Honolulu to Los Angeles to Heathrow with American Airlines was booked through Trailfinders www.trailfinders.com at a cost of £1796 each. (Beware American Airlines offer no food at all on a 6 hour flight between the U.S.A and Hawaii)

Costs

The tour price was £6275 each

Visa

As Hawaii is an U.S.A state U.K. nationals need to fill in an ESTA form which can be done online at a cost of: US$21

Money

We obtained some U.S dollars for incidental expenses but in fact used credit cards or Apple Pay throughout. Only a couple of small market stalls required cash.

Climate

The climate was extremely variable with hot sunny days (27 degrees) when we were birding the lowlands but we had low cloud and rain up in the mountains and rain forest where it was much cooler on some days.

 Habitat

The Hawaiian chain of island is made up volcanoes, some of which are still active. Lava flows can be seen everywhere. Some of the old flows are vegetated with scrub and grass and rain forests exist higher up the slopes of the volcanoes. (Mauna Loa on Big Island is nearly 15 000 feet high) However goats, sheep and pigs have largely devastated and degraded much of the original forests and sadly the endemic birds which are reliant on these forests are in steep decline, some of which are likely to go extinct in my lifetime. Mongooses, rats, feral dogs and cats are also adding to the problem.

Daily Log

30th January

After a peculiar night in a motel close to the airport which was in a run-down area of Pheonix, John and I drove to the airport and boarded our flight to Honolulu. After a six and a half hour flight with American Airlines with no food we landed in Honolulu where there was no-one to greet us. It was a strange set up at the airport as there were many exits and we phoned Jacob who organised a transfer by a shuttle bus to get us to the hotel through all the city traffic. We saw a real mix of birds on the way to the hotel from all over the world; these included: Red-crested Cardinal, Black-crowned Night Heron, Cattle Egret, Red-vented Bulbul to Spotted Dove and Common Mynas.

Jacob greeted us at the hotel and we enjoyed a lovely meal meeting up with the rest of the group after having a garland of flowers placed around our neck by the local guide, Mandy Talpas.

31st January  

After a delicious breakfast eaten outside on the balcony of our hotel we drove up to a spot overlooking Honolulu and up into the rain clouds on the volcanic rim. Here we watched endemic O’ahu Amakihis as they flitted around in the vegetation. A White-rumped Shama crossed the road and Warbling White-eyes added themselves to our lists. We returned back down to the city and watched White Terns nesting in the trees in the city streets.

It was now quite hot and humid and we strolled around Kapiolani Park and I saw my much-wanted Java Sparrow as this was number 45 of my target Brooke Bond Tropical Birds tea cards. I was so pleased to get closer to my ambition of seeing all the birds from 50 cards that I collected as a child. In the park there was a real eclectic mix of introduced birds from all around the world. Saffron Finches hopped around with Yellow-fronted Canaries, Zebra Doves, Common Mynas, Common Waxbills as well as Pacific Golden Plovers.

I took a few photographs and we hopped back in the bus and stopped at a take-away lunch cafe and grabbed a bite to eat. It was wonderful to sit by the Pacific Ocean and watch Red-tailed Tropicbirds coming into their nesting sites as Sooty Terns flew by far out to sea as we sat and ate our huge Prawn sushi meals in the hot sun. A Wandering Tattler ran down the rocks as another came in and chased it away.

1st February

What a day it was today! We started our day watching Red-footed Booby and Brown Booby off Makapu’u Island in glorious sun that O’ahu was offering us today. It was hot and humid as we watched Hawaiian Coot and Black-necked Stilts on a suburban pond before adding Caspian Tern on a military basin along with American Wigeon and Eurasian Wigeon.

We stopped at various points along the coast and watched a Wandering Tattler whilst admiring some Red-vented Bulbuls. After another delicious lunch, huge prawns covered in coconut and macadamia nuts, we followed Mandy and made our way across a golf course at Kahuku where we watched several Bristle-thighed Curlews, a much endangered wader. Mandy is a passionate conservationist  and explained the importance of the protected area which sadly was being totally ignored by dog walkers and cyclists. Grrr...A Laysan Albatross flew over them and flushed them whilst off-shore Hump-back Whales were leaping out of the Pacific Ocean. With the sun beating down we took the opportunity for a few photographs and enjoyed the moment. It was just glorious to be here. Can life get any better?

After such a wonderful day Mandy drove us back around the coast stopping off at Fumi’s Shrimp Shack where we added Sanderling and Ruddy Turnstone to our lists as well as Red Avadavat at Wailua. On the way back to the hotel we could all see Pearl Harbour as we drove by.

2nd February

Today our group flew from O’ahu Island northwards to the island of Kaua’i Island in the Hawaiian chain of islands. We started at Kilauea where we saw Nene and Western Meadowlark whilst eating our lunch. We watched Great Frigatebird fly over too.  Mandy had a surprise for us after lunch as she drove around a suburban housing estate. We were amazed as we saw Laysan Albatrosses sitting on nests in suburban gardens. One bird had a small chick. A group of volunteers try their best to protect the birds but dogs and cats are a significant problem.

We stopped alongside the golf course in Princeville and had a leisurely walk admiring Eucalyptus trees as we went whilst watching Nene geese as well as a vagrant Snow Goose. It was another beautiful day as we noted Chestnut Munia, Cattle Egret, Black-crowned Night Heron and another Western Meadowlark.

Mandy drove us along the coastline where we watched Red-footed Booby, Brown Booby, Great Frigatebird and more Laysan Albatrosses whilst Humpback Whales breached offshore.

3rd February

Today was spent on trying to see some endemic birds to Kauai Island, Hawaii and to see the amazing Waimea Canyon. We set off early from our luxurious hotel (£450 a night, Hawaii is VERY expensive) and Mandy drove around the coast and up the Waimea Canyon Road climbing all the way up the volcanic island. We stopped to take some photos on the lookout over-looking the canyon. Whilst not as long as the Grand Canyon, Waimea Canyon was vegetated and very pretty. It was a shame that we were enveloped in low cloud spoiling the view. After taking some photos we continued our drive to the top of the road where we listened to the birds calling in the rain forest.

4th February

All too soon it was time to head for the airport where we flew to Hawaii (Big Island). On arrival we headed for a waterside restaurant and had a delicious Scallop and Crab meal before heading to our beds for the night.

5th February

We started our day at Kealakehe Water treatment works where the highlight for the locals was a Ruff! Various ducks including Ring-necked Duck and Lesser Scaup were seen whilst listening to Black Francolins. We added Grey Francolin and Yellow-billed Cardinal here as well as Cackling Goose.

We then headed upwards to Mauna Kea where we could see Mauna Loa, the world’s largest active volcano. After failing to find Chukar at 9000ft I was glad to descend as I suffer very badly with altitude sickness and was beginning to get a headache. Luckily Mandy decided not to stay more than a few minutes as the weather was a bit grim up here. She drove back down and we birded at 7000 feet at Palila Forest Discovery Trail. There were several other birders here all searching for the endemic Palila but we were all failing to find any Palilas. Sadly it is now a critically endangered bird and although fencing has been installed to protect the reserve other forested areas where it was once found have been degraded by goats, pigs, sheep, rats, cats, dogs and mongooses. Its fate looks grim.

Motoring on we stopped by a farmstead where we watched an Erckel’s Spurfowl sitting on a post whilst Grey Francolins ran by the side of the minibus before heading back to the hotel.

The evening was AWESOME! After sunset Jacob, Walter and I made our way down to the harbour in the dark where we were measured up for a wetsuit. After putting them on, we boarded a boat and were taken out to the sea. We put on snorkelling masks and jumped into the sea and grabbed onto a bar on a floating mat and put a foam tube under our feet so that we were laying face down in a horizontal position. Blue lights were switched on which illuminated all the plankton and attracted all the fish. The fish then attracted Manta Rays. They were HUGE! The Manta Rays swam towards us and I had an eyeball to eyeball experience as they came within an inch of my face! The Manta Rays would swim underneath us and then ball roll as they came up and under us. It was a stunning experience and one I shall not forget in a hurry. What a wonderful life this is! My thanks must go to Mandy for the suggestion and making this happen and to Jacob for coming with me for support. I have always believed in taking up opportunities when they are offered as life is for living and not just existing.

6th February

We had an early start today and drove up to 9000 feet to see Mauna Kea, a volcano now a national park. After seeing Black Francolin along Old Saddle Road we drove back down to 6500 feet to Hakalau Forest National Wildlife Refuge were we had special permission to enter it. We were in very low cloud and it was very wet and so sadly I decided to leave my camera in the van as having a zoom lens, I did not want it getting fogged up as has happened in rain forests before now when it is raining.  What a bad decision this turned out to be as an hour or so later the rain and low cloud disappeared and the sun came out. I should have gone back to the van to fetch my camera but did not want to miss out on the important new birds that may well have shown. We watched Oma’o, I’iwi, Akiapola’au, (yes the spellings are fun here!)  Hawaii Creeper, Hawaii Amakihi, Apapane and Hawaii Akepa. Later the sun emerged and I took a few photos using my iphone. It was a delightful reserve and we saw the endemic birds well but sadly they are in serious decline and I suspect several will go extinct in my lifetime. On our way back to the minibus we watched a pair of Kalij Pheasants creep across the track

After returning to the minibus Mandy drove a different route back to the hotel to give us the best chance of adding a few more birds to our list. Along the Mana Road we watched an Io (Hawaiian Hawk) and a Short-eared Owl along the Old Saddle Road.

 7th February

Today was booked as a pelagic day around Big Island, Hawaii and out to the Yellow Pacific Rim Tsunami Warning Buoy 32 miles offshore. Some of the group were a little apprehensive going so far offshore but I was looking forward to it. Most pelagics are rough and can be very cold. However Mandy assured us that it would be hot under the clear-blue tropical sun and Mauna Loa volcano at 15000 feet high would shelter us from the Trade Winds tearing across the Pacific. We took her at her word. It was hot but one’s idea of calm and another person’s idea of calm are two entirely different things, least to say two of our party re-saw their breakfasts!

I struggled with my camera and have hundreds of out-of-focus photos and hundreds of sea and sky pictures if anyone is wanting photos of some? I have a few of microscopic dots too!

We left Honokohau harbour at 7am and almost immediately were watching Humpback Whales to our delight against a background of Mauna Loa.

Soon we had a Band-rumped Petrel flying not far off the boat which was a world tick for me. The Leach’s Petrel went by too quickly for my camera. Later a Laysan Albatross flew by along with a Brown Booby and more Wedge-tailed Shearwaters.

8th February

We stayed in our room at the hotel in Kailua-Kona until midday and joined Jacob for lunch looking out to sea in the warm sun for our last few hours on Big Island, Hawaii. We pottered around the tourist shops and I bought a Manta Ray necklace to remind me of the stunning evening with them. All too soon it was time to drive to the airport, where we watched Yellow-billed Cardinals and House Sparrows. We thanked Jacob for his efforts and boarded our flight to Los Angeles for the next part of our holiday. I must thank John for his company and Mandy for her passion for saving endangered birds and her excellent knowledge of the islands and birds. A more exuberant and enthusiastic guide you could not find. Thank you Mandy.

Species seen

Birds

1. Nene     Branta sandvicensis 02/02/2023              Kilauea Kaua'i Hawaii
2. Cackling Goose Branta hutchinsii 05/02/2023 Kealakehe Water Treatment Works, Big Island Hawaii
3. Snow Goose Anser caerulescens             02/02/2023        Kilauea Kaua'i              Hawaii
4. Wigeon Mareca Penelope 01/02/2023    Kaneohe Marine Base, Oahu              Hawaii
5. American Wigeon Mareca americana     01/02/2023        Kaneohe Marine Base, Oahu        Hawaii
6. Hawaiian Duck  Anas wyvilliana 02/02/2023        Hanalei Wildlife Refuge Kaua'i   Hawaii
7. Mallard               Anas platyrhynchos       30/01/2023        Honolulu Oahu              Hawaii
8. Pintail   Anas acuta 05/02/2023 Kealakehe Water Treatment Works, Big Island   Hawaii
9. Ring-necked Duck Aythya collaris 05/02/2023     Kealakehe Water Treatment Works, Big Island      Hawaii
10. Lesser Scaup      Aythya affinis    05/02/2023        Kealakehe Water Treatment Works, Big Island      Hawaii
11. Wild Turkey       Meleagris gallopavo       05/02/2023        Kilauea Military Base, Big Island Hawaii
12. Kalij Pheasant    Lophura leucomelanos  05/02/2023        Kaloko Drive, Big Island   Hawaii
13. Grey Francolin  Ortygornis pondicerianus 05/02/2023 Kealakehe Water Treatment Works, Big Island Hawaii
14. Black Francolin  Francolinus francolinus 06/02/2023        Old Saddle Road, Big Island           Hawaii
15. Chukar Partridge Alectoris chukar           06/02/2023        Mauna Kea Access Road, Big Island              Hawaii
16. Erckel's Spurfowl Pternistis erckelii         03/02/2023        Waimea Canyon Road Kaua'i       Hawaii
17. Chestnut-bellied Sandgrouse     Pterocles exustus            05/02/2023              Waikaloa, Big Island       Hawaii
18. Rock Dove Columba livia             30/01/2023        Honolulu Oahu Hawaii
19. Spotted Dove    Spilopelia chinensis        30/01/2023        Honolulu Oahu              Hawaii
20. Zebra Dove        Geopelia striata              31/01/2023        Honolulu Oahu              Hawaii
21. Common Gallinule         Gallinula galeata             01/02/2023        Ka'elepulu Pond Oahu        Hawaii
22. Hawaiian Coot  Fulica alai           01/02/2023        Ka'elepulu Pond Oahu              Hawaii
23. Black-necked Stilt            Himantopus mexicanus 01/02/2023        Ka'elepulu Pond Oahu        Hawaii
24. Pacific Golden Plover     Pluvialis fulva    31/01/2023        Honolulu Oahu              Hawaii
25. Bristle-thighed Curlew   Numenius tahitiensis     01/02/2023 Kahuku Golf Course, Oahu Hawaii
26. Turnstone          Arenaria interpres          01/02/2023        Fumi's Shrimp Shack Pond, Oahu Hawaii
27. Ruff       Calidris pugnax 05/02/2023        Kealakehe Water Treatment Works, Big Island            Hawaii
28. Sanderling          Calidris alba       01/02/2023        Fumi's Shrimp Shack Pond, Oahu Hawaii
29. Wandering Tattler          Tringa incana    31/01/2023        Honolulu Oahu              Hawaii
30. Grey-tailed Tattler          Tringa brevipes 03/02/2023        Bobby's Salt Pond Kaua'i Hawaii
31. Brown Noddy    Anous stolidus  07/02/2023        Kona Pelagic, Big Island              Hawaii
32. Black Noddy      Anous minutus 07/02/2023        Kona Pelagic, Big Island              Hawaii
33. White Tern        Gygis alba          31/01/2023        Honolulu Oahu Hawaii
34. Caspian Tern Hydroprogne caspia 01/02/2023   Kaneohe Marine Base, Oahu    Hawaii
35. Sooty Tern         Onychoprion fuscatus   31/01/2023        Honolulu Oahu              Hawaii
36. Red-tailed Tropicbird     Phaethon rubricauda     31/01/2023        Honolulu Oahu    Hawaii
37. White-tailed Tropicbird Phaethon lepturus         31/01/2023        Honolulu Oahu    Hawaii
38. Laysan Albatross Phoebastria immutabilis 01/02/2023   Kahuku Golf Course, Oahu Hawaii
39. Leach's Petrel    Hydrobates leucorhous 07/02/2023        Kona Pelagic, Big Island   Hawaii
40. Band-rumped Storm Petrel         Hydrobates castro          07/02/2023              Kona Pelagic, Big Island Hawaii
41. Black-winged Petrel Pterodroma nigripennis       07/02/2023        Kona Pelagic, Big Island           Hawaii
42. Wedge-tailed Shearwater           Ardenna pacifica             07/02/2023              Kona Pelagic, Big Island Hawaii
43. Great Frigatebird Fregata minor              02/02/2023        Kilauea Kaua'i              Hawaii
44. Red-footed Booby Sula sula 01/02/2023              Makapu'u Island,off Oahu              Hawaii
45. Brown Booby    Sula leucogaster 01/02/2023      Makapu'u Island,off Oahu              Hawaii
46. White-faced Ibis Plegadis chihi  05/02/2023        Kealakehe Water Treatment Works, Big Island      Hawaii
47. Night-Heron Nycticorax nycticorax          30/01/2023        Honolulu Oahu              Hawaii
48. Cattle Egret Bubulcus ibis            30/01/2023        Honolulu Oahu Hawaii
49. Hawaiian Hawk Buteo solitarius 06/02/2023        Mana Road, Big Island              Hawaii
50. Short-eared Owl             Asio flammeus  06/02/2023 Old Saddle Road, Big Island   Hawaii
51. Red-masked Parakeet    Psittacara erythrogenys 07/02/2023 End of the World, Big Island            Hawaii
52. Ring-necked Parakeet    Psittacula krameri           31/01/2023 Honolulu Oahu    Hawaii
53. Rosy-faced Lovebird      Agapornis roseicollis 05/02/2023 Mauna Kea, Big Island   Hawaii
54. Kauai Elepaio    Chasiempis sclateri 03/02/2023 Koke'e N.P Kaua'i Hawaii
55. Oahu Elepaio    Chasiempis ibidis 31/01/2023    Honolulu Oahu Hawaii
56. Hawaii Elepaio  Chasiempis sandwichensis 05/02/2023  Mauna Kea, Big Island   Hawaii
57. Skylark  Alauda arvensis              05/02/2023        Mauna Kea, Big Island              Hawaii
58. Red-whiskered Bulbul   Pycnonotus jocosus       31/01/2023        Honolulu Oahu    Hawaii
59. Red-vented Bulbul          Pycnonotus cafer            30/01/2023        Honolulu Oahu    Hawaii
60. Japanese Bush Warbler Horornis diphone           05/02/2023        Mauna Kea, Big Island   Hawaii
61. Warbling White-eye       Zosterops japonicus       31/01/2023        Honolulu Oahu    Hawaii
62. Red-billed Leiothrix        Leiothrix lutea   31/01/2023        Honolulu Oahu              Hawaii
63. Northern Mockingbird   Mimus polyglottos         03/02/2023        Waimea Canyon Road Kaua'i       Hawaii
64. Common Myna Acridotheres tristis         30/01/2023        Honolulu Oahu              Hawaii
65. Omao   Myadestes obscurus      06/02/2023        Hakalau, Big Island              Hawaii
66. White-rumped Shama   Copsychus malabaricus 31/01/2023        Honolulu Oahu    Hawaii
67. House Sparrow Passer domesticus          30/01/2023        Honolulu Oahu              Hawaii
68. African Silverbill              Euodice cantans              03/02/2023        Waimea Canyon Road Kaua'i       Hawaii
69. Java Sparrow     Padda oryzivora              31/01/2023        Honolulu Oahu              Hawaii
70. Scaly-breasted Munia    Lonchura punctulata      01/02/2023        Ka'elepulu Pond Oahu        Hawaii
71. Chestnut Munia              Lonchura atricapilla       02/02/2023        Princeville Kaua'i   Hawaii
72. Common Waxbill            Estrilda astrild   31/01/2023        Honolulu Oahu              Hawaii
73. Red Avadavat    Amandava amandava   01/02/2023        Wailua, Oahu              Hawaii
74. Iiwi        Drepanis coccinea          06/02/2023        Hakalau, Big Island              Hawaii
75. Apapane            Himatione sanguinea     03/02/2023        Koke'e N.P Kaua'i              Hawaii
76. Akiapolaau        Hemignathus wilsoni     06/02/2023        Hakalau, Big Island              Hawaii
77. Anianiau             Magumma parva            03/02/2023        Koke'e N.P Kaua'i              Hawaii
78. Hawaii Creeper Loxops mana     06/02/2023        Hakalau, Big Island              Hawaii
79. Hawaii Akepa    Loxops coccineus            06/02/2023        Hakalau, Big Island              Hawaii
80. Hawaii Amakihi Chlorodrepanis virens   05/02/2023        Mauna Kea, Big Island   Hawaii
81. Oahu Amakihi   Chlorodrepanis flava     31/01/2023        Honolulu Oahu              Hawaii
82. Kauai Amakihi   Chlorodrepanis stejnegeri           03/02/2023        Koke'e N.P Kaua'i   Hawaii
83. House Finch       Haemorhous mexicanus             31/01/2023        Honolulu Oahu    Hawaii
84. Yellow-fronted Canary  Crithagra mozambica    31/01/2023        Honolulu Oahu    Hawaii
85. Western Meadowlark    Sturnella neglecta           02/02/2023        Kilauea Kaua'i   Hawaii
86. Northern Cardinal          Cardinalis cardinalis       01/02/2023        Kahuku Golf Course, Oahu Hawaii
87. Saffron Finch     Sicalis flaveola   31/01/2023        Honolulu Oahu Hawaii
88. Red-crested Cardinal     Paroaria coronata          30/01/2023        Honolulu Oahu    Hawaii
89. Yellow-billed Cardinal    Paroaria capitata 05/02/2023 Kealakehe Water Treatment Works, Big Island Hawaii

Mammals

1. Humpback Whale           Megaptera novaeangliae            01/02/2023              Kahuku Golf Course, O'ahu
2. Melon-headed Whale   Peponocephala electra  07/02/2023        Honkohau Harbour Pelagic, Big Island
3. Anatolian Sheep             Ovis gmelini       05/02/2023        Mauna Kea, Big Island
4. Small Indian Mongoose Urva auropunctata         01/02/2023        Makapu'u Beach Park, O'ahu
5. Hawaiian Monk Seal      Neomonachus schauinslandi     04/02/2023              Po'ipu Beach, Kauai

Other Species

1. Hawaiian Green Turtle Chelonia mydas 04/02/2023 Po'ipu Beach, Kauai
2. Monarch Butterfly Danaus plexipus a few seen across the islands
3. Clouded Sulphur Colias philodice seen at many sites across the islands
4. Small White Butterfly Pieris rapae numerous, especially at Mauna Kea, Big Island