Norfolk Birders

Trip Report

 

August 8^th -27^th 2006

 

Sue Bryan and Paul Jeffery

Lois and Bill Lang

Ann and Peter Joliffe

Thomas Valqui

 

Introduction

 

Peru is a fascinating country with many diverse habitats, including lowland jungle, cloud forests, high altitudes and deserts. It claims to have one of the highest species count of birds in the world. Because of difficult logistics (with no available roads or tracks in the Amazonia Basin) Paul and I knew we would need some help in the ground arrangements. At Birdfair 2005 we met Thomas Valqui ( [email protected]) who seemed to have part of the package we required consisting of the Manu Road, Manu Wildlife Centre, Cock of the Rock Lek, High Andes, Machu Picchu and some coastal work. The dates Thomas offered through his company of Gran Peru (www.granperu.com) in alliance with Inka Natura Travel (www.inkanatura.com) seemed to offer most of what we wanted with the exception of coastal birding. This did not bother us as this was easy to arrange as an addition to the main tour.

 

   

                                                                                          

 

                                                           

                                                                                                                    Machu Picchu

 

Flights costing £793 to Lima (via Amsterdam) from Norwich were arranged using www.lastminute.com

 

Thomas has recently published a site guide for Peru and is currently researching tinnamous for his doctoral thesis. Thomas acted as our guide along with 4 other participants for most of our tour and Gran Peru in conjunction with Inka Natura arranged all accommodation (hotels or wildlife lodges in Amazonia) and logistics. Given the nature of travel in the jungle and on the Manu Road, involving an internal flight between Lima and Cusco, boats, a small 12 seater plane, trains, raft and minibuses, Paul and I were impressed by the organisation. The cost for this section of the tour (barring a couple of meals) amounted to around £2600. With Thomas we visited a coastal marsh in Lima, Machu Picchu, Cusco, Manu Road, and Manu before retuning to Lima.

 

After bidding farewell to Thomas we hired a car from Budget (www.budget.com) at Lima Airport and drove southwards along the coastal Pan American highway to Paracas in the Atacama Desert. Paracas is a small fishing community offering boat trips to the Ballesteros Islands. We stayed for the first night at the El Mirador Hotel ([email protected]) a reasonably priced but fairly basic hotel minutes from the beach. Because the hotel was fully booked for the next few nights we found some self-catering accommodation in the village for our remaining nights.

 

After returning to Lima via San Pedro Fields (see Thomas’s site guide) for another night we headed north along the Pan American highway to a reserve at Lachay for our last remaining habitat of coastal scrub, where Paul got his much desired Least Seedsnipe tick! It must be said though; driving in the city of Lima is not for the feint hearted as there don’t seem to be any ‘rules of the road’! A city map is essential as road signs are few and far between. Once out of the city the Pan American highway was easy driving.

 

Birding around Cusco and the Manu Road involves high altitudes. I spent part of my time feeling very unwell with altitude sickness. This condition can affect the young and old, fit and unfit alike. We also took tablets for Mararia prevention because we were in a Malaria region at Manu Wildlife Centre. We used American Dollars at the bigger hotels but obtained some local currency (Sol) for local craft markets and café purchases. This is available at the hotels in exchange for American Dollars.

 

6^th August

 

Flew from Norwich to Amsterdam with KLM. Over-night in Amsterdam

 

7^th August

 

Flew from Amsterdam to Bonaire Island just off the Venezuelan coast. (Lesser Antilles) Onward to Lima. Over-night in Lima.

 

8^th August

 

An early morning walk in the park just outside our hotel produced Amazilia Hummingbird, Saffron Finch, and Southern Beardless Tyrannulet as well as many common species. After our walk in the park we drove just outside Lima to Villa Marshes for some coastal/marsh birds. Highlights included Least Bittern, Puna Ibis, Plumbeous Rail and Andean Duck. The day was ended at Pucusana, a busy fishing harbour where Peruvian Pelicans and Guanay Cormorants bedecked every available rooftop.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

            Green Heron                                                 Slate-colored Coot                                                   Band-tailed Gull   

                                         

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

              

 

 

 

 

 

Peruvian Pelican                                                             Peruvian Thick-knee                                 Black Vulture

 

 

 

Walking around the cliff-top just before dusk Humboldt Penguins can be seen coming and going from the sea-caves. Inca Terns and Surf Cinclodes can also be seen around the rocks. We ended the day on 61 species.

 

9^th Aug

 

An early morning flight took us over the Andes and into Cusco. The ‘thin-ness’ of air was immediately apparent with laboured breathing and pounding hearts. After dropping off our luggage at the hotel we tried to bird a higher valley, however we were all feeling the effects of the altitude with bad headaches. The weather turned cold and generally miserable. The birds were obviously not keen on it and disappeared. However we had excellent views of Giant Hummingbird and our first tanagers. Blue-grey Tanager is a bird, along with Chiguanco Thrush, that we were to see many times. Our tally rose to 80 species.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

           Blue-grey Tanager

 

10^th August

 

At a busy station we boarded the train that took us down a river valley for two hours to the bottom of a steep track-way that lead to Machu Picchu. Luckily we had been allocated river-side seats that allowed us to birdwatch for the whole journey. The fast-flowing mountain river had many Torrent Ducks posing on rocks as well as Torrent Tyrannulets catching any available food that the river provided as it crashed on its way. On reaching the end of the train track we transfered to a never ending stream of buses that transported us up a hair-pin bend track-way that doubled as a road.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

               Torrent Duck                                              The hair-pin track-way                                                Machu Picchu

 

It is an understatement to say the sight of Machu Picchu was wonderful. It was AWESOME. Words cannot describe this wonderful place, so I won’t! During a tour from well-meaning tourist guide, I managed to sneak away, just to take in the beauty of the place by my-self.  We then re-grouped in the search for Inca Wren. The climb up to the Sun Gate was arduous with the lack of oxygen and racing hearts. However Inca Wren was soon located as was Cusco Brush-Finch. Superciliaried Hemipingus also left us tongue-tied for a while! We returned back down the track, after leaving the ruins a little late to make the most of the birding, to our hotel at Machu Picchu.

 

 

11^th Aug

 

The gardens at the Machu Picchu hotel are ideal for birding. It was easy to sit at one spot and watch the birds in the trees and on the feeders. Tanagers and hummingbirds were everywhere. Humming birds included Chestnut Coronet, Sparkling Violetear, White-bellied Woodstar and Violet-throated Starfrontlet. The tanagers came thick and fast at times and included Hepatic Tanager, Golden-naped Tanager, Beryl Spangled Tanager, Fawn-breasted Tanager, Blue and Black Tanager, Saffron-crowned Tanager, Blue and Black Tanager, Silver-backed Tanager, Blue-necked Tanager and small parties of Silver-beaked Tanagers. Mid-afternoon we boarded the train back to Cusco but unfortunately did not have river-side seats and viewing conditions for birding was very restricted. It was nightfall by the time we returned to our hotel.

 

 

 

         Silver-beaked Tanager

 

12^th August

 

An early rise meant that we were out birding on Haucarpay Lake in the early morning. This RAMSAR site is an excellent high Andean

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

                                                                                         

 

 

 

 

 

 

marsh holding many waterbirds as well as the endemic Bearded Mountaineer Hummingbird. Puna Teal, Yellow-billed Pintail, Cinnamon Teal and Yellow-winged Blackbirds were all easy to see. However the Bearded Mountaineer gave us the run-around and quickly flitted through. Another endemic that gave us a hard time was the Rusty-fronted Canastero that we located in the scrub on the hillside at the side of the lake. The day finished with a superb flight of a pair of Black-chested Buzzard-Eagles above the mountain-side in a clear blue sky.   

  

 

                                                                                    

 

                               

                                                                                                    Yellow-billed Pintail and Cinnamon Teal

 

 

13^th August

 

Today was going to be a long day with the start of the journey along the famous ‘Manu Road’. We first had to travel back to HuarcarpayLake, which given the stunning scenery was a pleasure. We stopped for another quick scan as Paul is a wader fan and was keen to increase his chances of his sought after waders. Unfortunately I was not able to put him onto a disappearing view of Puna Snipe quickly enough. Once we left the lake, the ascent of the Andes started and the road surface disappeared. The bumpy track-way was set to continue for the next 4 days, which ordinarily would not be a problem, but for those of us throwing up because of altitude sickness, it was to become a real headache (literally)! Still at this point we were all still OK and enjoying the scenery from the minibus as we started the ascent. Very soon we were near the top of the first pass at 3900 metres. We stopped to watch a pair of Mountain Caracaras just before another couple of stops, one to admire some pre-Inca ruins and another for lunch. The lunch stop proved productive with Moustached Flowerpiercer, Great Thrush, Brown-backed Chat-tyrant and Scarlet-bellied Mountain Tanager all being added to the list as we ate.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

                                                         

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

                                                                                                                          

                                                                                                 The Manu Road with Pre-Inca ruins

 

 

                                          

 

 

 

                                                                                                                  Profile of the Manu Road

 

As we descended over the last pass we stopped in a village to stretch our legs for some welcome birding. I spotted a Grey-breasted Mountain Toucan high up in one of the trees that was quickly followed by a Blue-capped Tanager and a Cinnamon Flycatcher. We were to see many of these delightful flycatchers all down the Manu Road. As night fell we disturbed a Band-winged Nightjar from the road and our driver knew of a spot where, superb views of Lyre-tailed Nightjars were had. What a tail!

 

We arrived at Cock-of-the-Rock Lodge in the dark, tired but very pleased with all the events of the day. The lodge provides wooden cabins with shower/toilet and candles to see in the dark with so a torch is a ‘must’ for getting to the wooden dining room that has a wonderful veranda with feeders and flowering shrubs suitable for hummingbirds.

 

14th August

 

The day I had been waiting for, for many years had finally arrived. After getting up before first light I was in position sitting in a hide on a mountain-side looking through the tree canopy. It was still very gloomy as strange noises began. Suddenly we were aware of spots of bright red appearing as 10 or more male Cock-of-the-Rock males stared lekking, by flapping their wings displaying to several females that were also present. As day dawned it was a stunning display!

 

 

 

                                                             

 

                                                                

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

                                                                                   Cock-of the-rock                                                                                             Cock-of-the-rock Lek 

 

 

                                                                                              

 

 

                                                                                                                          Sun Bittern

 

I could have sat for hours but breakfast called at the lodge, after which we walked a jungle trail below the lodge following the course of a river. At one point, we had to cross the river in a contraption suspended on a wire! We had a good mix of birds including, Black-bellied Thorntail, Booted Racket-tail, Yellow-throated Bush-tanager and wonderful views of a Sun Bittern standing on the rocks of the fast flowing river.

 

 

                                                                          

                  

 

 

                                                                                                                            Woolly Monkey

 

After lunch we returned up the Manu Road for more spotlight views of the Lyre-tailed Nightjar at dusk but not before we had seen, Paradise Tanager and Bay-headed Tanagers as well as Fork-tailed Woodnymph, Many-spotted Hummingbird, Yungas Manakin and Violet-fronted Brilliant. We also heard and saw a family party of Woolly Monkeys crashing through the trees

          

 

15^th August

 

We were up before first light and boarded the minibus to return up the Manu Road. The altitude was beginning to get to me and I developed a nagging headache. Never-the-less I obviously didn’t want to miss out on the birding. White-throated Tyrannulet, Glossy Black Thrush, Three -striped Warbler and Common Bush-tanager were recorded. Hummingbirds still abounded with Scaled Metal-tail, Mountain Velvetbreast, Long-tailed Sylph and Brown Violetear all being added to the list. However it was becoming more and more difficult to focus my eyes as my headache intensified. My stomach was soon heaving and I was having difficulty standing up. I realised I was in trouble and a decision was made that I needed to lose some altitude and fast! The driver of the minibus was superb as we had to stop three times on the way back down to the lodge for me to throw up. Every bump on the road was agony for my head and stomach. I was never so pleased to see my bed where at that moment death seemed a preferable option!

 

16^th August

 

Once again I was up before first light to get into the Cock-of-the rock hide to get a last chance to witness the amazing sight of the lek. Once again I was not disappointed. I waited until everyone else had left to have a few special moments to myself. I looked up and to my amazement a Cock-of –the-rock came to pose just above my head by the track-way. A memorable way to say goodbye!

 

I re-joined the others quickly adding Slaty Ant-wren, Yellow-throated Tanager, Crimson-crested Woodpecker and Striped-chested Ant-wren. After breakfast we bid our fare-wells to the lodge and continued our way down the Manu Road. As we lost altitude I began to feel better. Suddenly the habitat changed as we met the lowlands.

 

A village appeared as did some smoke as the villagers practised ‘slash and burn’ to raise crops and feed animals. I spotted a Cuvier’s Toucan perched high in a tree as Magpie Tanagers made their way through the lower bushes. A Plum-throated Cotinga added to the new delights. Soon we reached the end of the road, literally! The only way to continue our journey was by boat. We boarded the boat with all our luggage and set off down the Madre de Dios River, one of the Amazon’s tributaries. The wide river was flowing at great speed due to the recent rains. Skilful boatmen weaved us in and out the fallen trees as made our way to Amazonia Lodge, an hour downstream in the rain. The river held several new ticks for us including, Faciated Tiger Heron and Ringed Kingfisher. Many Snowy Egrets stood by the river’s edge throughout our journey.

 

 

 

 

                                                                                                                       

 

On arrival at the lodge we sat on the balcony and watched a Pale-legged Hornero pick his way under the bushes as a variety of birds visited the flowering shrubs and feeders.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

                                                                          Amazonia Lodge 

 

 

                      Black-billed Thrush                                                

 

 

 

Red-capped Cardinal

 

 

 

A Blue-tailed Emerald delighted us on the flowers as did a Red-capped Cardinal, Black-billed Thrush and Masked Crimson Tanager on the bird table. However the rain increased and thunderstorm intensified as we had our evening meal and made our way to bed. It certainly knows how to rain in the tropics!

 

 

 

                                                                                                           Masked-crimson Tanager

                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                            

17^th August.

 

After breakfast we climbed our way up a steep jungle trail. It was disappointingly quiet but we did see White-necked Jacobin and Emerald Toucanette before we started our ascent. The observation tower at the end of the trail was about 100 foot high. Normally I don’t have a problem with heights but this one was on the wobble and I didn’t feel at all safe. Even climbing up the steps gave me the jitters. Once at the top, the views were magnificent but I chose to sit for most of the time where I felt a little safer. We had excellent views of Purple Honeycreeper, Green Honeycreeper, Blue Dachnis and Blue-chinned Sapphire in the canopy of the tree. Up in the air White Hawk and a King Vulture put on a marvellous display. I was pleased with a Horned Screamer that flew by in the distance.

 

Later we walked around an Ox-bow lake that produced our first Howatzins. A Double-toothed Kite perched in a tree above our heads as I spotted a Short-tailed Swift in the air. After lunch we were thwarted by rain and sat on the balcony waiting for it to abate. An hour before dusk we set off down a jungle trail in search of tinamous. We were not to be disappointed. On the track a Greater Tinamou walked around 20 metres in front of us. The rain however had other ideas about our birding and we beat a hasty retreat back to the lodge, but not before I flushed a second tinamou off the pathway.

 

18^th August

 

Heavy rains overnight continued as we awoke. Our birding was confined to views from the balcony. However, today was to be a day of river travel, as we were due to go downstream to Manu Wildlife Centre, a place that many birders in England have told us about. Firstly we had to travel upstream to get rid of most of our luggage that was going to be taken back to our hotel in Cusco. Eventually we would be taken out of the jungle on a small aircraft that only had a small luggage allowance. We boarded our boat to deliver our luggage to our faithful driver who had the unenviable job of driving over the bumpy track-way over the pass back to Cusco. After an hour or so on the much raised river levels we bid fare-well to our driver and turned the boat around for our 7 hour journey down the river to Manu.

 

A White-banded swallow was an addition to our list as was a Capped Heron and Yellow-billed Tern as we started our journey down stream. It was still raining and those of us at the front of the boat were glad of our waterproofs but we still managed some excellent sightings in the shape of a Great Black Hawk and a Red-throated Caracara. For me this completed the Caracara set but I was still impressed by sightings of Black Skimmers, a species I have seen before but one of nature’s wonders. After 7 hours and some excellent relaxing birding we arrived at Manu to be greeted by the manager of the centre.

 

 

 

 

                                                                                                                             

         Docking at Manu Wildlife Centre                                      Our Cabin at Manu Wildlife Centre

 

After settling in we added Bluish-fronted Jacamar to the list as well as Spix’s Woodcreeper but our owling efforts after our evening meal came to nothing except finding a scorpion on the pathway!

 

19^th August

 

Sand-coloured Nighthawks and a Channel-billed Toucan started our day off as we headed down river towards what Manu is famed for. After landing at the river-side a short walk took us to a floating hide that was definitely aground! As we settled in for a long vigil amply supplied with drinks and Maple Syrup Pancakes (yummy!), parrots seemed to be everywhere. Hundreds of Blue-headed Parrots came down onto the clay-lick in front of us.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Blue-headed Parrots in their hundreds on the Clay-lick                                                       Blue-headed Parrot

 

                                                                                      

                                         

Red-and-green Macaws on the clay-lick

 

                                             

We searched amongst the parrots and found Mealy Parrots, Orange-cheeked Parrots and Yellow-crowned Parrots. A Zoned-tailed Hawk caused consternation amongst the birds as it wheeled overhead. Soon Red and Green Macaws started settling in the tops of trees and took their time coming onto the lick. However it was a spectacular sight not to be missed. Meanwhile at the back of the hide a Barred Antshrike was putting on a good show in the reeds. As we walked back to the boat several hours later we spotted a Lineated Woodpecker high up in the trees.

                                                 

Our next stop was a river island. These can often be good for birding as they offer a different habitat, particularly if they have a large patch of Bamboo. We added White-lined Antbird, Red-billed Scythebill, Dusky-tailed Flatbill, Cabanis’ Spinetail and Great Antshrike to our lists. We returned to our cabins very satisfied with our day’s sightings. However the day was not finished, as we set out once again to the most bizarre lick to date! En-route we had an excellent view of a Variegated Tinamou that performed very well for those with cameras. An Ocellated Poorwill also perched well as we watched it in the torchlight.

 

After what seemed like an age we arrived at our destination along the trail. It was now pitch-black and we were a little unsure as to what was expected of us or what was going to happen. The Amazon jungle is a dark place at night and we were instructed to climb up the platform onto an individual mattress under a mosquito net without using our headlamps or torches. I could not even see Paul who was right next to me! It is a strange feeling being in the jungle without any light at all, listening to all the noises that a jungle has to offer! Sleep seemed a good option after a good day’s birding, but I was all too aware of something happening and so after a short wait I popped my head outside the mosquito net. A chap indicated that I should walk along the platform a short way and sit in the complete darkness! I grabbed Paul for some security, not that he knew what was happening either. I could still not see him sitting right next to me.

Eventually a crashing noise was heard and an infra-red torch was switched on. There in front of us was a Tapir that had come down to a small clay-lick. The animal was much bigger than I expected. All too soon the torch was switched off as tapirs are extremely shy nocturnal animals. Later the torch illuminated another animal and we returned along the trail back towards our cabins. Along the way we were suddenly surprised as a Tapir crashed through the undergrowth across our path. It was a heart-stopping moment!

 

20^th August

 

Once again after a short boat ride we climbed up the observation tower at Manu. Luckily this time, although much higher, it was at least stable! Excitement grew as an eagle landed in a distant tree that appeared to be all white in colour. A scope was needed to get a decent view. However it was not a Harpy Eagle as we had all hoped but a juvenile Ornate Hawk-eagle.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Steps up to the Observation Tower                                 View from the top                                 Ornate Hawk-eagle   

                    

It was a slow start but a lovely morning. Black-tailed Tityra, Large Elaenia and Mouse-coloured Tyrannulet gave some of our party difficulty as often birds appear all at once and skill is required to make sure that they are all seen. An Orange-fronted Plushcrown showed at the same time and quickly disappeared as a Chestnut-crowned Foliage-gleaner put in appearance in a different tree.                                                                                                                                                                

                                                                        

 

Canopy birding can often be exciting as it is wonderful to be at the same height as the birds themselves. After several hours we suddenly realised that we had a Great Potoo sharing our tree and we were right underneath it. I could not get over the fact that exactly the same had happened to me in Ecuador in 1997.

Later on we walked to an Ox-bow lake where a raft was awaiting us. Our boatmen paddled us quietly along the lake. This was absolute bliss in the hot sun streaming down on us! This is what I call easy birding, so relaxing! Absolutely wonderful! Lesser Kiskadees accompanied us until a Swallow-tailed Kite sailed overhead. Purus Jacamars sat on over-hanging branches as we glided underneath while a Sungrebe was an addition to the list. A Troupial brightened up the morning still further as a Rufescent Tiger-heron alighted from its perch. We were also intrigued by some bats that were roosting on the side of a tree led in the water.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

        Bats at the side of the side of the tree                               Thomas working really hard!                          Great Potoo

 

All too soon our wonderful morning was over and it was back to the lodge before some did ‘The Grid’ whilst I caught up with my notes lying in a hammock. Peace! Once darkness had fallen Paul, Thomas and I went ‘owling’. Unfortunately only two owls were heard but not seen.

 

21^st August

 

We said our goodbyes to Manu and boarded our boat for our last trip up river. Two hours later we arrived at a tiny grass air-strip and a 12-seater plane that was to take us back to Cusco. We had wonderful views of the vastness of the Amazon Jungle as well as the mountain passes that we had travelled over along the Manu Road.

 

 

   

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

                                                       

Our 12 seater plane                                                                                   Paul in Cusco                  

 

                                                                                                                           

Once back in Cusco we were re-united back with our luggage and birded the valley that we had seen so little in, on our first arrival in Cusco. This time it was a little better and Paul got his Puna Snipe as well as us all seeing Andean Goose and Plumbeous Sierra Finch. Streak-throated Canastero and Puna Ground-tyrant were also added to the list. We tried to make it to the top of the pass but once up above the cloud-line it was a hopeless task for birding. We could not see a thing in the thick cloud. We were up so high (4100metres) that the altitude was making two of us feel quite ill again. This was our last night with Thomas and our fellow travellers and although not feeling very well, Paul and I both made it to the farewell meal in Cusco.

 

 

22^nd August

 

We caught the morning flight to Lima and said our farewells to our fellow birders. Thomas helped us with the hiring of our car once we were back at Lima Airport, which was just as well as it took over an hour of inefficiency of the staff to sort out even though we had pre-booked it. Once into the Lima traffic, the night-mare started. There are no ‘rules of the road’. The free-for-all is not helped by the lack of road signs or non-existent street names. I had three road maps none of which had any scale on for the city driving. Luckily Thomas had drawn a route to leave the city on which he said was the main flow of traffic. After an hour of hair-raising driving (don’t tell Paul that I had my eyes shut half the time, even though I was meant to be navigating) Paul managed to get the car out of the city without a major incident. Once onto the Pan American Highway it was all plain sailing!

 

One small point I had failed to notice when planning the trip was that Lima to Paracas is part of the Atacama Desert. The scenery was…………….well desert, lots of sand! With the guide book that Thomas had kindly given to us (Where to Watch Birds in Peru, Thomas Valqui) we stopped off at San Pedro Fields. Here we saw Wilson’s Phalarope, Willet, Least Sandpiper, Peruvian Tern, Semi-palmated Plover and Semi-palmated Sandpiper as well as Grey Plover and Sanderling as additions to the list. A hundred miles later we arrived at Paracas and found The Mirador Hotel. ([email protected]) Paracas is a small bustling coastal village set in the middle of nowhere surrounded by sand! We could not see how we were going to encounter any birds at all. However………………

 

23^rd August

 

A lie-in today! We got up for 7am so that we could be at the Quay-side for the early morning boats to the Ballesteros Islands. However the coastguards at Pisco deemed it too misty and we had a few hours delay on leaving. Once on the water Paul and I were amazed at the sheer numbers of sea-birds. Peruvian Booby, Blue-footed Booby, Peruvian Pelican and Guanay Cormorant were everywhere. Over a million

cormorants were nesting on one of the islands, 12 birds per square metre! Constant streams of boobies were in flight above our heads, as we tossed about in the waves. Inca Tern and Red-legged Cormorants Peruvian Boobies in flight were also nesting on the cliff ledges as we edged near to get photographs.    

 

 

                                         .

                                                                                                                                  

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Peruvian Boobies

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

                                                                                             

        

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 Peruvian Sea-lions                                                                                     Inca Tern                                      Ballesteros Islands

 

By a stroke of luck I managed to see a Peruvian Diving-Petrel sitting on the sea.

 

By 2pm we had arranged to meet up with Edguardo Aguilarh (Eddie) ([email protected]) who was one of the guides on one of the boats. He was a keen birder who knew some local spots for some specialities of the area. Since we were at a loss as to how we were going to see anything in the desert, Eddie obviously knew some tracks that were not obvious to the foreign birder. He took us to a patch of scrub that held Peruvian Sheartail and Oasis Hummingbird.

 

 

 

 

  Peruvian Sheartail

 

     

 

By driving into the desert we located a Common Miner that took us some time to locate having flown off as we stopped the car. Another track-way seemingly leading to nowhere produced a small plantation of trees. This area was quite productive as we added Coastal Miner, Short-tailed Field Tyrant and Slender-billed Finch. A marsh in Pisco, that we were told not to visit on our own because it was unsafe to do so, produced a couple of Burrowing Owls. Along the shore we spotted Surfbirds as we dropped Eddie off near his house. We were lucky to find some more accommodation in the form of a self-catering house in the centre of Paracas.

 

 

24^th August

 

We had enjoyed the previous day’s boat trip so much that we decided to join Eddie’s boat for a second visit to the Ballesteros Islands. Although we did not add anything to the trip list our boat was surrounded by Bottlenose Dolphins. Many dolphins surrounded the boat and for ten minutes we were all delighted by their antics. Later in the day Eddie agreed to join us once again and took us to some irrigated agricultural land at the rear of a local settlement. We added Parrot-billed Seedeater and Drab Seedeater to our trip list as well as watching more Burrowing Owls.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 Burrowing Owls

 

25^th August

 

Today we went in search of Chilean Flamingos which were stood in Paracas Bay accessed by the Paracas National Park. A small entrance fee allows access to some track-ways across the desert. However sand can do funny things to track-ways and it was often a guessing game as to where the track-way actually was. In the bay, a tower hide gives some elevation but unfortunately it is placed far to far from the birds to make positive identifications on small waders, especially with heat haze being a major problem. Thirty-nine flamingos stood feeding in the shallow water as well as many Snowy (Kentish) Plovers. We drove on further to some salt-pans where Wilson’s Phalaropes made me feel quite dizzy as they spun around after small insects on the water.   

 

 

 

 

 

 

                 Chilean Flamingos

 

26^th August

 

 

We decided to leave for Lima early as we wanted to drive into Lima in the light. We had a short stop at San Pedro Fields again where we added Stilt Sandpiper to the list as well as a duck we could not find in the field guide. After making a few notes and consulting The Handbook of Birds of the World when we got home we discovered that it was a Ringed Teal, a bird well off course! With brilliant navigation (mostly done with my eyes shut through fear) Paul managed to get the car back to our hotel in one piece. An afternoon walk in the park did not produce any more additions to our trip list, but we had sightings of Pacific Dove.

                                                                                                                          

                                                                                                                                          Pacific Dove

 

 

 

27^th August

 

We left our hotel in Lima for another manic drive out of the city and headed north on the Pan-American Highway. After 60 miles we came to a reserve at Lachay. This lomas (often covered in mist) reserve lies not far from the coast just off the Pan-American Highway. Along the track we came upon calling Least Seedsnipe. This made Paul a happy man as this ‘tick’ was on his ‘wants list’. After he had taken a few photos we paid a small entrance fee and parked the car in the small car park at the end of the track, where we saw Thick-billed Miner. Although there is a small visitor centre, this was unmanned and of very little use for our needs. However we were given a map of the reserve at the entrance and set off uphill, passing a Masked Yellowthroat. Mountain Parakeets flew overhead as Correndera Pipits ran on the ground.

 

We descended down into a hollow where we flushed out a Striped Owl. As we climbed the steep hill we had marvellous views of it perching nearby, before it flew off. After a long hard climb we reached the top of the hill but were surrounded in mist making visibility difficult at times. After a mile along the ridge we saw very little and descended the steep descent back to the car only adding Dark-faced Ground Tyrant to our list. We felt that we had not seen all the available birds and as we still had some time at our disposal decided to repeat the first part of the walk again. This added Collared Warbling-finch to our list, which was to be the last tick of our trip.

 

We left the reserve and drove into dry valley up the back of the reserve. Here it was exceedingly hot but did not add any new species to our lists. Several Burrowing Owls made fascinating watching as they flew from burrow to burrow. Paul then drove back to the airport, through the manic traffic in Lima, where the car rental people were not happy with the dirty state of our car!  

 

 

   

   Systematic List

 

1.        Great Tinamou            Amazonia Lodge, Manu        17/08/06

2.        Variegated Tinamou        Manu Wildlife Lodge JungleTrail     19/08/06

3.        White-tufted Grebe 4+ Huarcarpay Lake Cusco 12/08/2006  2 San Pedro Fields 26/08/06

4.        Pied-billed Grebe        10+ Pantanos De Villa Lima 08/08/06

5.        Great Grebe 20+ Pantanos De Villa Lima 08/08/06 2 Tower Hide Paracas Bay

6.        Humboldt Penguin     3 Pucusana Lima 08/08/06 20+ Ballesteros Islands 23/08/06-24//08/06

7.        Peruvian Diving-petrel Paracas         23/08/06

8.        Blue-footed Booby    Common at Paracas  23/08/06

9.        Peruvian Booby           Common along coast

10.     Neotropic Cormorant Common along coast and Madre De Dios River

11.     Guanay Cormorant     Millions of nesting pairs at Ballesteros Islands

12.     Red-legged Cormorant           3 Pucsana 08/08/2006 10+ Ballesteros Islands 23/08/06-24/08/06

13.     Peruvian Pelican Common along coast

14.     Little Blue Heron 4 Pantanos De Villa Lima 08/08/06, 2 San Pedro Fields 22/08/06

15.     Snowy Egret Common along coasts, rivers and lakes        

16.     Capped Heron 2 along Madre de Dios river 18/08/06 singles 21/08/06-22/08/06

17.     Cocoi Heron 5+ Madre de Dios River 18/08/06-21/08/06

18.     Great White Egret       small numbers along coast, rivers and lakes

19.     Cattle Egret Common at Pantanos De Villa Lima, Cusco and Paracas

20.     Striated Heron 6+ Pantanos De Villa 10+ Lima         08/08/06 singles at Amazonia Lodge Manu 18/08/06

21.     Black-crowned Night-heron Pantanos De Villa       Lima    08/08/06

22.     Fasciated Tiger-heron 3 Madre De Dios River        Amazonia Lodge 16/08/06 and 18/08/06

23.     Rufescent Tiger-heron  2 Ox-bow lake          Manu  20/08/206

24.     Least Bittern 5 Pantanos De Villa Lima         08/08/06

25.     Puna Ibis Common at Pantanos De Villa Lima         08/08/06 Smaller numbers at Huacarpay Lake and Paracas

26.     Chilean Flamingo        39 Paracas Bay           25/08/06

27.     Horned Screamer        Madre De Dios River 1 on 17/08/06 2 18/08/06, 3 19/08/06/, 3 20/08/06, 2 21/08/06

28.     Andean Duck 3 Pantanos De Villa Lima 08/08/2006 2 Huacarpay Lake 12/08/06 1 Huacarpay Lake 13/08/06

29.     Andean Goose 2 Puna Zone Urubamba Mountain Pass    Cusco 21/08/06

30.     Orinoco Goose Madre De Dios River Manu 6 on 19/08/2006, 4 20/08/06

31.     Muscovy Duck Madre De Dios River 1 on 18/08/06, 1 21/08/06

32.     Ringed Teal 1 San Pedro Fields         Lima    26/08/06

33.     Torrent Duck 15 seen from train in Rio Urubamba River to Machu Picchu 10/08/06 Family party 11/08/06

34.     Speckled Teal Cusco 09/08/06 Common at Huacarpay Lake Cusco 12/08/06-13/08/06

35.     Yellow-billed Pintail Common at Huacarpay Lake Cusco 12/08/06-13/08/06

36.     White-cheeked Pintail 10+ Pantanos De Villa Lima 08/08/06 50+ San Pedro Fields 22/08/06 20+ Pisco Marshes 23/08/06 20+ San Pedro Fields 26/08/06

37.     Puna Teal Common at Huacarpay Lake Cusco        12/08/06-13 /08/06

38.     Cinnamon Teal 2 Pantanos De Villa Lima 08/08/06 Common at Huacarpay Lake Cusco 12/08/2006-13/08/06 and Pisco Marshes and San Pedro Fields

39.     American Black Vulture Common along coast and Madre De Dios River

40.     Turkey Vulture San Pedro Fields  22/08/06

41.     Greater Yellow-headed Vulture          singles along Manu Road and Manu 16/08/06- 21/08/06

42.     King Vulture 2 at Amazonia Lodge 17/08/2006 2 Manu Jungle Lodge 20/08/06

43.     American Swallow-tailed Kite            Manu  20/08/06

44.     Double-toothed Kite Singles Amazonia Lodge 17/08/2006 Manu Tower Hide 20/08/06

45.     Plumbeous Kite          Regular from Manu Road to Manu 16/08/06-20/08/06

46.     Cinereous Harrier       3 at Huacarpay Lake Cusco  12/08/06

47.     Plain-breasted Hawk  Amazonia Lodge        18/08/06

48.     Crane Hawk    Manu  21/08/06

49.     White Hawk    Amazonia Lodge        17/08/06

50.     Great Black-hawk        2 at Amazonia Lodge 18/08/06

51.     Harris' Hawk 2 at Pantanos De Villa Lima 08/08/2006 singles at Paracas on 23/08/06, 24,/08/06, 26/08/06

52.     Black-chested Buzzard-eagle 2 at Huacarpay Cusco 12/08/06

53.     Roadside Hawk           Several sightings along Manu Road 16/08/06-18/08/06

54.     White-throated Hawk             Manu Road    15/08/06

55.     Puna Hawk      1 Puna Zone Urubamba 21/08/06

56.     Zone-tailed Hawk       Manu  19/08/06

57.     Ornate Hawk-eagle Tower hide         Manu  20/08/06

58.     Osprey  Pantanos De Villa Lima        08/08/2006 Paracas 22/08/06-23/08/06

59.     Red-throated Caracara           Amazonia Lodge        18/08/06

60.     Mountain Caracara    3 on mountain pass Manu Road 13/08/2006 2 in Puna zone Urubamba 21/08/06

61.     American Kestrel        Common along coast and Manu

62.     Bat Falcon       Manu Road    16/08/2006 Amazonia 18/08/06 and 20/08/06

63.     Speckled Chachalaca 2 Machu Picchu 10/08/06 14 at jungle lodges 16/08/06-18/08/06

64.     Andean Guan Machu Picchu 11/08/2006, 6 Cock of the Rock Lodge 13/08/06-15/08/06

65.     Spix's Guan     2 Amazonia Lodge     18/08/06

66.     Blue-throated Piping-guan 2 Manu 19/08/206 singles Manu 20/08/06-21/08/06

67.     Grey-necked Wood-rail          Manu Road    16/08/06

68.     Plumbeous Rail Pantanos De Villa Lima 08/08/06 several Huacarpay Lake 12/08/06-13/08/06 and Pisco Marshes23/08/06 and San Pedro Fields 24/08/06

69.     American Purple Gallinule Manu      20/08/06

70.     Common Moorhen     common at all marshes

71.     Slate-coloured Coot common at marshes

72.     Sungrebe         Manu  20/08/2006

73.     Sunbittern 3 at torrent river Cock of the Rock Lodge          14/08/06

74.     Wattled Jacana           10+ Manu Lodge Ox-bow Lake         20/08/06

75.     American Oystercatcher2 on beach Pantanos De Villa Lima 08/08/06 1 San Pedro Fields 22/08/06 2 Paracas 23/08/06-24/08/06 10+ Paracas Bay 25/08/06

76.     Blackish Oystercatcher 2 on beach Pantanos De Villa Lima 08/08/06 4 Paracas 24/08/06-25/08/06

77.     Black-necked Stilt       50+ Pantanos De Villa Lima 08/08/06 10+ San Pedro Fields 22/08/06 and 26/08/06, 2 Pisco Marshes 24/08/06

78.     Peruvian Thick-knee 10 near Pantanos De Villa amongst the houses Lima 08/08/06, 2 San Pedro Fields 22/08/06,2 Paracas 23/08/06 2 Pisco 24/08/06

79.     Grey Plover 2 San Pedro Fields Lima 22/08/2006,1 San Pedro 26/08/06,

80.     Semipalmated Plover 3 San Pedro Lima        22/08/06

81.     Killdeer 3 Pantanos De Villa Lima 08/08/06 10+ San Pedro 22/08/06 and 26/08/06 2 Pisco Marsh 23/08/06

82.     Snowy (Kentish) Plover Paracas       25/08/2006

83.     Collared Plover 15+ Madre De Dios River 18/08/06

84.     Pied Lapwing 15 Madre De Dios River 18/08/2006-21/08/06

85.     Andean Lapwing        2 Huacarpay Lake 09/08/06, 6 Huacarpay Lake 12/08/2006-13 /08/06, 2 Urubamaba 21/06/08

86.     Puna Snipe      Huacarpay Lake 13/08/06 1 Puna Marsh Urubamba 21/08/06

87.     Whimbrel common along coast

88.     Greater Yellowlegs common at Huacarpay, San Pedro and Pisco with small numbers along Madre De Dios River

89.     Lesser Yellowlegs      10+ Huacarpay Lake Cusco  12/08/06, 10+ San Pedro 22/08/06, 3 San Pedro 26/08/06

90.     Spotted Sandpiper     3 Madre De Dios River 18/08/06, 1 San Pedro 26/08/06

91.     Willet 20+ San Pedro Lima 22/09/06 and again 26/08/06

92.     Ruddy Turnstone 5 Pantanos De Villa Lima 08/08/2006 and small numbers Paracas and San Pedro

93.     Surfbird 21 Piscao beach 21/08/06 and 40+ Lagunillas, Paracas 23/08/2006

94.     Sanderling       common at San Pedro and Paracas

95.     Semipalmated Sandpiper        3 San Pedro Lima       22/09/06

96.     Least Sandpiper 3 San Pedro Lima 22/09/06, 1 San Pedro 26/08/06

97.     Pectoral Sandpiper     13 Huacarpay Lake 13/08/06 2 Madre De Dios River 19/08/06

98.     Stilt Sandpiper 5 San Pedro Lima 26/08/06

99.     Wilson's Phalarope 20+ San Pedro Lima      22/09/06 and 26/08/06 and Paracas Saltpans 25/08/06

100.  Least Seedsnipe 10+ Lachay 27/08006

101.  Band-tailed Gull common along coast

102.  Grey Gull common along coast

103.  Kelp Gull small numbers along coast

104.  Grey-headed Gull        common along coast

105.  Andean Gull small numbers along high mountain rivers and Huacarpay Lake

106.  Snowy-crowned Tern             1 Paracas         23/08/06

107.  Yellow-billed Tern      20+ most days along Madre De Dios River 18/08006-21/08/06

108.  Peruvian Tern small numbers along coast

109.  Large-billed Tern small numbers most days along Madre De Dios River 18/08/06-21/08/06

110.  Inca Tern common along coast

111.  Black Skimmer 10 Madre De Dios River 18/08/06-21/08/06, 400+ Paracas Bay

112.  Spot-winged Pigeon 9 Huacarpay Lake        Cusco 12/08/06- 13/08/06

113.  Pale-vented Pigeon    Amazonia Lodge        18/08/06

114.  Plumbeous Pigeon     3 Manu            18/08/06

115.  Ruddy Pigeon 2 Manu Road 14/08/2006 2 Amazonia Lodge          18/08/06

116.  Eared Dove     common along coast and towns

117.  Pacific Dove common along coast and towns

118.  Croaking Ground-dove small numbers Lima and Paracas  

119.  Bare-faced Ground-dove 10+ Huacarpay Lake Cusco        12/08006, 4 Lachay 27/08/06

120.  White-tipped Dove Huacarpay Lake Cusco 12/08/06 Amazonia Lodge 17/08/2006

121.  White-throated Quail-dove   Machu Picchu            11/08/06

122.  Ruddy Quail-dove      Manu  18/08/06

123.  Military Macaw          2 Amazonia Lodge     17/08/2006

124.  Scarlet Macaw small numbers at Amazonia Lodge 18/08/06

125.  Red-and-green Macaw 200+ Manu Clay Lick  19/08/06

126.  Chestnut-fronted Macaw      small numbers Amazonia Lodge 17/08/06-21/08/06

127.  Scarlet-fronted Parakeet 3 Lima         08/08/06, 2 Lima 26/08/06

128.  Mitred Parakeet          40+ Machu Picchu     11/08/2006

129.  White-eyed Parakeet 3 Amazonia Lodge 16/08/06, 10+ Madre De Dios River 21/08/06

130.  Dusky-headed Parakeet 30 Amazonia Lodge           17/08/06-18/08/06

131.  Mountain Parakeet     3 Lachay        27/08/06

132.  Cobalt-winged Parakeet         10 most days in Manu 17/08/06-21/08/06

133.  Tui Parakeet 30 Amazonia Lodge 18/08/2006 30+ Manu Clay Lick 19/08/06

134.  Orange-cheeked Parrot10+ Manu     Clay Lick 19/08/06

135.  Blue-headed Parrot small numbers Manu Road      16/08/06, 2000+ Manu Clay Lick 19/08/06

136.  Speckled-faced Parrot 15+ Machu Picchu    11/08/06

137.  Yellow-crowned Parrot 50+ Manu Clay Lick 19/08/06 10 Madre De Dios River 21/08/06

138.  Mealy Parrot 30+ Manu Clay Lick 19/08/06, 4 Manu 20/08/06

139.  Squirrel Cuckoo 2 Amazonia Lodge 17/08/06 3 Manu 19/08/06-21/08/06

140.  Hoatzin 20+ Amazonia Lodge 17/08/206, 100+ Ox-bow lake Manu 20/08/06

141.  Greater Ani     1 Manu 20/08/06

142.  Smooth-billed Ani      1 Manu            19/08/06

143.  Groove-billed Ani       10 Manu Road 16/08/06, 2 San Pedro 22/08/06 6 Pisco Marsh 24/08/06

144.  Burrowing Owl 1 Pisco Marsh 2 Paracas 23/08/06, 6 Lachay 27/08/06

145.  Striped Owl  1 Lachay            27/08/06

146.  Great Potoo 1 Manu   20/08/06

147.  Common Potoo 1 Manu         19/08/06

148.  Sand-coloured Nighthawk small numbers on Madre De Dios River Manu 19/08/2006-21/08/06

149.  Lesser Nighthawk      10+ Puscana Lima      08/08006, 4+ Paracas 23/08/06

150.  Ocellated Poorwill      1 Manu 19/08/06

151.  Band-winged Nightjar 2 Manu Road            13/08/06

152.  Lyre-tailed Nightjar 2 Manu Road 13/08/06-14/08/06

153.  Chestnut-collared Swift 10+ Manu Road 16/08/06-17/08/06

154.  White-collared Swift 1 Huacarpay Lake Cusco       12/08/06, commoner east of Andes 10+ seen most days 13/08/06-20/08/06

155.  Pale-rumped Swift      2 Manu Clay Lick       20/08/06

156.  Short-tailed Swift        1 Amazonia Lodge     17/08/06

157.  White-tipped Swift     1 Machu Picchu        10/08/06

158.  Andean Swift 2 near Cusco   09/08/06

159.  Lesser Swallow-tailed Swift 10-50 most days Manu Road 16/08/06-19/08/06

160.  Reddish Hermit 3 Manu         19/08/06

161.  Grey-breasted Sabrewing      2 most days Amazonia Lodge 16/08/06-18/08/06

162.  White-necked Jacobin 1 Amazonia Lodge   17/08/06

163.  Brown Violet-ear 1 Manu Road         15/08/06

164.  Green Violet-ear          2 Machu Picchu         10/08/06

165.  Sparkling Violet-ear 10+ Machu Picchu        11/08/06

166.  Rufous-crested Coquette 1 Amazonia Lodge          17/08/06

167.  Black-bellied Thorntail 8 Manu Road           14/08/06- 18/08/06

168.  Blue-chinned Sapphire 1 Amazonia Lodge  17/08/06

169.  Blue-tailed Emerald 1 Amazonia Lodge        16/08/06

170.  Fork-tailed Woodnymph 2 most days Manu Road 14/08/06-18/08/06

171.  Golden-tailed Sapphire 2 both days Amazonia Lodge        17/08/06-18/08/06

172.  Many-spotted Hummingbird 2 Manu Road 14/08/06

173.  Green-and-white Hummingbird 1 Pisaq  near Cusco           09/08/06, 2 Machu Picchu 11/08/06

174.  White-bellied Hummingbird 1 Machu Picchu          10/08/06

175.  Amazilia Hummingbird 1 Lima           08/08/06, 4 Paracas 23/08/06-26/08/06

176.  Speckled Hummingbird 2 Machu Picchu 11/08/06, 1 Amazonia Lodge 14/08/06

177.  Gould's Jewelfront      1 Amazonia Lodge     17/08/06

178.  Violet-fronted Brilliant 10+ Manu Road        14/08/06

179.  Giant Hummingbird 2 Abra Malaga, Cusco 09/08/06, 4+ Huacarpay Lake 13/08/06

180.  Shining Sunbeam 1 Manu Road        13/08/06, 3+ Abra Malaga 21/08/06

181.  White-tufted Sunbeam 10+ Abra Malaga Cusco 21/08/06

182.  Mountain Velvetbreast 1 Manu Road          15/08/06

183.  Bronzy Inca 2 Manu Road     14/08/06

184.  Collared Inca 3+ Machu Picchu        11/08/06

185.  Violet-throated Starfrontlet 1 Machu Picchu           11/08/206

186.  Chestnut-breasted Coronet 10+ Machu Picchu      11/08/06

187.  Amethyst-throated Sunangel 1 Manu Road            15/08/06

188.  Booted Racket-tail 3 Manu Road      14/08/06

189.  Green-tailed Trainbearer 1 Pisaq near Cusco 09/08/06, 1 Yucay 10/08/06

190.  Scaled Metaltail 1 Manu Road          15/08/06

191.  Tyrian Metaltail 2 Huacarpay Lake 13/08/06, 2 Abra Malaga 21/08/06

192.  Long-tailed Sylph       3 Manu Road 15/08/06

193.  Bearded Mountaineer 2 Huacarpay Lake  Cusco 12/08/06-13/08/06

194.  Oasis Hummingbird 1+Paracas          23/08/06

195.  Peruvian Sheartail      Paracas 2+ 23/08/06

196.  White-bellied Woodstar 1 Machu Picchu 11/08/06, 1 Cock of the Rock Lodge 16/08/06

197.  Black-tailed Trogon 2 Amazonia Lodge       17/08/06

198.  Blue-crowned Trogon 1 Amazonia Lodge 17/08/06, 1 Manu 20/08/06

199.  Ringed Kingfisher      singles Madre De Dios River 16/08/06, 18/08/06, 21/08/06

200.  Amazon Kingfisher singles Madre De Dios River Manu 19/08/06-20/08/06

201.  Green Kingfisher 3 Manu      19/08/06-20/08/06

202.  Highland Motmot       2 Machu Picchu 10/08/06, singles Cock of the Rock 14/08/06, 16/08/06

203.  Chestnut Jacamar 10+ Manu 20/08/06

204.  Bluish-fronted Jacamar 1 Manu        18/08/06

205.  Rufous-capped Nunlet 1 Manu         19/08/06

206.  Black-fronted Nunbird 3 Amazonia Lodge 17/08/006, 3 Manu 19/08/06-20/08/06

207.  White-fronted Nunbird 1 Manu        19/08/06

208.  Swallow-wing 3 Madre De Dios River  18/08/06

209.  Black-spotted Barbet 1 Manu            19/08/06

210.  Lemon-throated Barbet 1 Manu Road          16/08/06

211.  Scarlet-hooded Barbet 2 Amazonia Lodge   17/08/06

212.  Versicoloured Barbet 1 Manu Road 14/08/06, 2 Cock of the Rock Lodge 16/08/06

213.  Emerald Toucanet      1 Amazonia Lodge     17/08/06

214.  Chestnut-eared Aracari singles Amazonia Lodge 17/08/06-18/08/06 and  Manu 19/08/06

215.  Grey-breasted Mountain-toucan 2 Manu Road      13/08/06

216.  Channel-billed Toucan 1 Manu         19/08/06

217.  Cuvier's Toucan 1 Manu Road 16/08/06, 2-4 daily  Madre De Dios River18/08/06-21/08/06

218.  Ocellated Piculet         1 Machu Picchu         11/08/06

219.  Fine-barred Piculet 1 Amazonia Lodge         18/08/06

220.  Yellow-tufted Woodpecker 1 Amazonia Lodge       18/08/06, 3 Manu 19/08/06-20/08/06

221.  Little Woodpecker     1 Manu Road 16/08/06

222.  Golden-olive Woodpecker 2 Manu Road     14/08/06

223.  Lineated Woodpecker 4 Manu          19/08/06-21/08/06

224.  Crimson-crested Woodpecker singles Manu Road 16/08/06 and 18/08/06

225.  Plain-brown Woodcreeper    1 Amazonia Lodge    17/08/06

226.  Cinnamon-throated Woodcreeper 1 Manu  18/08/06

227.  Elegant Woodcreeper 2 Manu 18/08/06

228.  Buff-throated Woodcreeper 2 Amazonia Lodge     17/08/06

229.  Olive-backed Woodcreeper 1-2 daily Manu Road 14/08/06-16/08/06

230.  Red-billed Scythebill  1 Manu           19/08/06

231.  Common Miner2 Paracas       23/08/06, 6+ Lachay 27/08/06

232.  Coastal Miner 3 Paracas        23/08/06

233.  Thick-billed Miner      10+ Lachay     27/08/06

234.  Bar-winged Cinclodes 2 Manu Road            13/08/06

235.  Surf Cinclodes 2 Puscana Lima         08/08/06, 2 Paracas 25/08/06

236.  Pale-legged Hornero 1-2 daily Amazonia Lodge 16/08/06-18/08/06

237.  Azara's Spinetail 4+ Machu Picchu 10/08/06-11/08/06, 1-4 Cock of the Rock Lodge 14/08/06-15/08/06

238.  Cabanis' Spinetail 1 Manu     19/08/06

239.  Plain-crowned Spinetail 1 Amazonia Lodge 17/08/06

240.  Ash-browed Spinetail 2 Amazonia Lodge    16/08/06

241.  Creamy-crested Spinetail 2 Manu Road       13/08/06

242.  Speckled Spinetail      1 Amazonia Lodge     17/08/06

243.  Rusty-fronted Canastero 2 Huacarpay Lake  Cusco 12/08/06

244.  Streak-throated Canastero     1 Abra Malaga Cusco 21/08/06

245.  Plain Softtail 1 Manu 18/08/06

246.  Wren-like Rushbird 2 Pantanos de Villa Lima 08/08/06, 12+ Huacarpay Lake 12/08/06. 1 Pisco 25/08/06

247.  Orange-fronted Plushcrown 1 Manu            20/08/06

248.  Pearled Treerunner     1 Manu Road             15/08/06

249.  Montane Foliage-gleaner      1 Manu Road 14/08/06

250.  Chestnut-crowned Foliage-gleaner 1 Manu             20/08/06

251.  Streaked Xenops 1 Manu Road 14/08/06, 2 Cock of the Rock Lodge 16/08/06

252.  Great Antshrike 1 Manu        19/08/06

253.  Barred Antshrike 1 Manu Clay Lick 19/08/06

254.  Chestnut-backed Antshrike 1 Manu Road 14/08/06

255.  Pygmy Antwren 1 Amazonia Lodge 17/08/06

256.  Stripe-chested Antwren 1 Manu Road 16/08/06

257.  Slaty Antwren 1 Manu Road 16/08/06

258.  Black-faced Antbird 1 Manu 19/08/06

259.  Silvered Antbird 1 Amazonia Lodge 17/08/06

260.  White-lined Antbird 1 Manu 19/08/06

261.  Chestnut-tailed Antbird 1 Amazonia Lodge 17/08/06

262.  Bolivian Tapaculo      1 Cock of the Rock Lodge Lek Manu Road 14/08/06

263.  Barred Fruiteater 1 Manu Road         13/08/06

264.  White-browed Purpletuft       1 Manu 20/08/06

265.  Plum-throated Cotinga 2 Manu Road 16/08/06-17/08/06

266.  Spangled Cotinga 1 Manu     20/08/06

267.  Purple-throated Fruitcrow     2 Manu 20/08/06

268.  Andean Cock-of-the-rock Machu Picchu 11/08/06 12+ males with 4 females Cock of the Rock Lodge Lek 14/08/06 and again 16/08/06

269.  Yungas Manakin 1 Manu Road        14/08/06

270.  Fiery-capped Manakin 1 Amazonia Lodge 17/08/06

271.  Streak-necked Flycatcher      2 Machu Picchu 11/08/061 Cock of the Rock Lodge 16/08/06

272.  Ochre-bellied Flycatcher        1 Amazonia Lodge     17/08/06

273.  Rufous-headed Pygmy-tyrant 1 Manu Road           14/08/06

274.  Sclater's Tyrannulet 1 Machu Picchu           11/08/06

275.  Bolivian Tyrannulet 2 Machu Picchu           11/08/06

276.  Southern Beardless Tyrannulet        4 Lima 08/08/06, 2 Lima  26/08/06

277.  Mouse-coloured Tyrannulet 1 Manu 20/08/06

278.  Yellow-crowned Tyrannulet 1 Amazonia Lodge 17/08/06

279.  Yellow-bellied Elaenia 1 Manu Road 13/08/06

280.  Large Elaenia 1 Manu 20/08/06

281.  White-crested Elaenia 1 Huacarpay Lake  Cusco 12/08/06

282.  Mottle-backed Elaenia 1 Manu Road 16/08/06

283.  Sierran Elaenia 1 Machu Picchu        10/08/2006

284.  White-throated Tyrannulet 1 Manu Road   15/08/06

285.  White-banded Tyrannulet     1 Machu Picchu 11/08/061 Manu Road 13/08/06

286.  Torrent Tyrannulet 6+ Torrent river Machu Picchu 10/08/06-11/08/06, 4 Cock of the Rock Lodge 14/08/06

287.  River Tyrannulet 1 Manu      19/08/06

288.  Tufted Tit-tyrant 4+ Machu Picchu 10/08/06

289.  Many-coloured Rush-tyrant 1 Pantanos de Villa Lima       08/08/06, 3+ Huacarpay Lake  12/08/06

290.  Marble-faced Bristle-tyrant 1 Machu Picchu 11/08/06, 1 Manu Road 14/08/06

291.  Scale-crested Pygmy-tyrant 1 Manu Road 14/08/06

292.  Grey-crowned Flycatcher      1 Manu 20/08/06

293.  Bran-coloured Flycatcher      1 Manu Road 16/08/06

294.  Cinnamon Flycatcher 10+ Manu Road         13/08/06-16/08/06

295.  Smoke-coloured Pewee 2 Manu Road          13/08/2006

296.  Black Phoebe 10+ Torrent River Machu Picchu      10/08/06

297.  Vermilion Flycatcher common on coast and lowlands, Obscrus race common in Lima  

298.  Brown-backed Chat-tyrant 2+ Manu Road 13/08/06

299.  D'orbigny's Chat-tyrant 1 Abra Malaga Cusco       21/08/06

300.  White-browed Chat-tyrant    Cusco 12/08/06

301.  Drab Water Tyrant Common along Madre de Dios River, Manu 18/08/06-21/08/06

302.  Black-billed Shrike-tyrant      1 Huacarpay Cusco 12/08/06

303.  Little Ground-tyrant 1 Manu Clay Lick 19/08/06

304.  Dark-faced Ground-tyrant     Lachay            27/08/06

305.  Rufous-naped Ground-tyrant 6+ Huacarpay Cusco 12/08/06

306.  Puna Ground-tyrant 3 Abra Malaga Cusco 21/08/06

307.  Cinereous Ground-tyrant 1 Huacarpay Cusco 12/08/06

308.  Short-tailed Field-tyrant singles Paracas      23/08/06-24/08/06, 2 Lachay 27/08/06

309.  White-winged Black-tyrant 2 Machu Picchu 10/08/06

310.  Long-tailed Tyrant     2 Manu Road 16/08/06, 1 Amazonia Lodge 17/08/06

311.  Sirystes1 Manu 20/08/06

312.  Dusky-capped Flycatcher     1 Manu Road 14/08/06

313.  Short-crested Flycatcher 1 Manu Road        16/08/06, 1 Manu 20/08/06

314.  Dusky-tailed Flatbill 1 Manu 19/08/06

315.  Tropical Kingbird       Common

316.  Lemon-browed Flycatcher 8+ Manu Road 14/08/06

317.  Golden-crowned Flycatcher 2 Machu Picchu 11/08/06, 6 Manu Road 14/08/06-16/08/06

318.  Streaked Flycatche 1 Manu 19/08/06

319.  Social Flycatcher 1 Machu Picchu 11/08/06, 2 Manu Road 16/08/06, 1 Manu 18/08/06, 6 Manu 20/08/06

320.  Grey-capped Flycatcher 1 Amazonia Lodge 17/08/06

321.  Lesser Kiskadee 3 Madre de Dios River Manu       20/08/06

322.  Great Kiskadee 2 Madre de Dios River Manu          20/08/06

323.  Barred Becard 1 Machu Picchu         11/08/06

324.  Black-tailed Tityra      2 Canopy Tower Manu 20/08/06

325.  Masked Tityra 4 Amazonia Lodge 17/08/2006, 2 Manu 19/08/06-20/08/06

326.  Black-crowned Tityra 2 near Manu Clay Lick 19/08/06

327.  White-winged Swallow 20+ Amazonia Lodge         18/08/06-20/08/06

328.  Brown-chested Martin 4 Madre de Dios River 18/08/06

329.  Grey-breasted Martin             Amazonia Lodge        18/08/06

330.  Brown-bellied Swallow Common Machu Picchu to Cusco 09/08/06-10/08/06

331.  Blue-and-white Swallow        Common most places absent from Manu

332.  White-banded Swallow 4+ Madre de Dios River 18/08/06-20/08/06

333.  Southern Rough-winged Swallow  5 Madre de Dios River 18/08/06-20/08/06

334.  Correndera Pipit 6+ Lachay 27/08/06

335.  White-capped Dipper 3  Machu Picchu       11/08/06,

336.  Black-capped Donacobius    1 Amazonia Lodge    17/08/06, 4 canopy Tower Manu 20/08/06

337.  Grey-mantled Wren 1 Manu Road 14/08/06

338.  Inca Wren 2 Machu Picchu 10/08/06

339.  House Wren common

340.  Mountain Wren 1 Manu Road 15/08/06

341.  Grey-breasted Wood-wren 2 Machu Picchu 11/08/06,2 Manu Road 13/08/06, 1 Cock of the Rock Lodge 15/08/06

342.  Long-tailed Mockingbird       6 Pantanos Villa Lima 08/08/0610 Paracas 24/08/06-26/08/06

343.  Chiguanco Thrush     common except Manu

344.  Great Thrush 3 at entrance to Manu National Park 13/08/06

345.  Glossy-black Thrush 2 Manu Road 15/08/06

346.  Black-billed Thrush 4 Amazonia Lodge        16/08/06-18/08/06

347.  Purplish Jay 2 Amazonia Lodge        17/08/06-18/08/06

348.  Violaceous Jay 5 Manu Road 16/08/06, 4 Amazonia Lodge 17/08/06-18/08/06

349.  House Sparrow regular at Lima and Paracas

350.  Red-eyed Vireo 2 Machu Picchu       11/08/06, 1 Amazonia Lodge 18/08/06

351.  Hooded Siskin 4 Machu Picchu 10/08/06-11/08/06, 10+ Huacarpay 12/08/06

352.  Olivaceous Siskin       3 Manu Road 15/08/06

353.  Tropical Parula 2 Machu Picchu       11/08/06

354.  Masked Yellowthroat 4 Lachay         27/08/06

355.  Slate-throated Redstart 5 Machu Picchu      11/08/06, 2 Cock of the Rock Lodge 16/08/06

356.  Spectacled Redstart 2 Machu Picchu 11/08/06, 2 Manu Road 13/08/06, 3 Manu Road 15/08/06

357.  Citrine Warbler 2 Manu Road 13/08/06

358.  Russet-crowned Warbler 1 Machu Picchu 11/08/06

359.  Three-striped Warbler 2 Manu Road 15/08/06

360.  Bananaquit     1 Manu Road 16/08/06

361.  Cinereous Conebill small numbers  throughout, 20+ Lachay

362.  Capped Conebill 2 Machu Picchu 11/08/06

363.  Magpie Tanager 3 Manu Road 16/08/06, 2 Amazonia Lodge 18/08/06, 2 Canopy Tower Manu 20/08/06

364.  Common Bush-tanager 4 Manu Road 15/08/06-16/08/06

365.  Yellow-throated Bush-tanager 1 Manu Road 14/08/06

366.  Grey-hooded Bush-tanager 1 Machu Picchu 11/08/06

367.  Superciliaried Hemispingus 1 Machu Picchu 10/08/06

368.  Oleaginous Hemispingus 2 Machu Picchu 11/006

369.  Black-eared Hemispingus      1 Manu Road 13/08/06

370.  Rust-and-yellow Tanager      1 Pisaq Cusco 09/08/06,1 Machu Picchu 10/08/06

371.  Hooded Tanager 1 Manu      19/08/06

372.  Hepatic Tanager 3 Machu Picchu 11/08/06

373.  Masked Crimson Tanager     3 Amazonia Lodge 17/08/06

374.  Silver-beaked Tanager  4 Machu Picchu      11/08/06, 6+ Amazonia Lodge 16/08/06-17/08/06

375.  Blue-grey Tanager     1 Cusco 09/08/2006, 10+ Machu Picchu 11/08/06

376.  Palm Tanager 2 Manu Road 16/08/06

377.  Blue-capped Tanager 2 Manu Road 13/08/06,

378.  Blue-and-yellow Tanager 2 Cusco 09/08/06, 10+ Machu Picchu 11/08/06, 4 Huacarpay 12/08/06-13/08/06

379.  Hooded Mountain-tanager 1 Manu Road 13/08/06

380.  Scarlet-bellied Mountain-tanager 6+ Manu Road 13/08/06

381.  Yellow-throated Tanager       2 Manu Road 16/08/06

382.  Chestnut-bellied Mountain-tanager 1 Manu Road 15/08/06

383.  Fawn-breasted Tanager 1 Machu Picchu 11/08/06

384.  Thick-billed Euphonia 3 Machu Picchu 11/08/06

385.  Orange-bellied Euphonia 1 Manu Road 14/08/06

386.  Rufous-bellied Euphonia       1 Canopy Tower Manu 20/08/06

387.  Blue-naped Chlorophonia     1 Machu Picchu 11/08/06

388.  Orange-eared Tanager 1 Manu Road 14/08/06

389.  Paradise Tanager 2 Manu Road 14/08/06, 2 Canopy Tower Manu 20/08/06

390.  Golden Tanager 2 Manu Road 14/08/06-16/08/06

391.  Saffron-crowned Tanager      1 Machu Picchu 11/08/06, 2 Manu Road 14/08/06-16/08/06

392.  Spotted Tanager 2 Manu Road 14/08/06-16/08/06

393.  Bay-headed Tanager Manu Road     14/08/06

394.  Golden-naped Tanager 1 Machu Picchu 11/08006

395.  Blue-necked Tanager 1 Machu Picchu 11/08/06, 2 Manu 14/08/06-16/08/06

396.  Beryl-spangled Tanager 1 Machu Picchu 11/08/06

397.  Blue-and-black Tanager 5 Machu Picchu 11/08/06, 2 Manu Road 13/08/06

398.  Silver-backed Tanager 2 Machu Picchu 11/08/06

399.  Opal-rumped Tanager 1 Amazonia Lodge 17/08/06, 1 Manu Lodge 20/08/06

400.  Yellow-bellied Dacnis  1 Manu Canopy Tower       20/08/06

401.  Blue Dacnis 1 Amazonia Lodge 17/08/06, 1 Manu Canopy Tower 20/08/06

402.  Green Honeycreeper 2 Amazonia Lodge 17/08/06

403.  Purple Honeycreeper 2 Amazonia Lodge 17/08/06, 2 Manu 20/08/06

404.  Rufous-collared Sparrow       very common throughout, absent from Amazonia

405.  Yellow-browed Sparrow         1 Machu Picchu 10/08/06, 1 Cock of the Rock Lodge 16/08/06, 1 Manu Clay Lick 19/08/06

406.  Black-faced Brush-Finch       8+ Manu Road 13/08/06- 15/08/06

407.  Cusco Brush-Finch 1 Machu Picchu 10/08/06

408.  Chestnut-capped Brush-finch 2 Machu Picchu 11/08/06

409.  Red-capped Cardinal 3+ Amazonia Lodge 16/08/06, 2 Manu Lodge 20/08/06

410.  Peruvian Sierra-finch 3 Abra Malaga Cusco 09/08/06

411.  Plumbeous Sierra-finch 1 Cusco       21/08/06

412.  Ash-breasted Sierra-finch     30+ Huacarpay Cusco 12/08/06

413.  Band-tailed Sierra-finch 60+ Huacarpay Cusco       12/08/06-13/08/06, 10+ Lachay

414.  Slender-billed Finch 6 Paracas 23/08/06

415.  Chestnut-breasted Mountain-finch 1 Abra Malaga Cusco 09/08/06, 2 Huacarpay 13/08/06

416.  Collared Warbling-finch 5 Lachay 27/08/06

417.  Greenish Yellow-finch 1 Abra Malaga Cusco 09/08/06

418.  Saffron Finch2  Lima 08/08/06

419.  Blue-black Grassquit 15+ near Puscana Lima 08/08/06, 3 Lachay 27/08/06

420.  Caqueta Seedeater 4+ Manu Clay Lick 19/08/06

421.  Parrot-billed Seedeater 3 + Paracas 24/08/06

422.  Drab Seedeater 2 Paracas 24/08/06

423.  Chestnut-bellied Seedeater 3 Manu Clay Lick 19/08/06

424.  Lesser Seed-finch 2 Manu Road       16/08006

425.  Band-tailed Seedeater 12 Huacarpay Cusco 09/08/06-10/08/06

426.  Plain-coloured Seedeater       1 Huacarpay Cusco 12/08/06

427.  Dull-coloured Grassquit 4 Manu Road 14/08/06-16/08/06

428.  Moustached Flower-piercer 1 Manu National Park entrance 13/08/06

429.  Black-throated Flower-piercer 1 Manu Road 13/08/06

430.  Masked Flower-piercer 1 Machu Picchu      10/08/062 Manu National Park entrance 13/08/06

431.  Black-backed Grosbeak 4 Pisaq Cusco 09/08/06, 2 Yucay 10/08/06, 1 Machu Picchu 11/08/06

432.  Yellow-shouldered Grosbeak 2 Canopy Tower Manu 20/08/06

433.  Buff-throated Saltator 1 Manu Road 14/08/06

434.  Greyish Saltator singles most days Manu Road- Manu 16/08/06-20/08/06

435.  Golden-billed Saltator 2 Abra Malaga Cusco 09/08/06, 1 Huacarpay 12/08/06

436.  Crested Oropendola 2 Amazonia Lodge       17/08/06-18/08/06

437.  Dusky-green Oropendola      2 Machu Picchu 10/08/06, 6 Cock of the Rock Lodge 14/08/06-15/08/06

438.  Russet-backed Oropendola common at Machu Picchu, Manu Road and Amazonia

439.  Amazonian Oropendola         1 Amazonia Lodge 17/08/06

440.  Yellow-rumped Cacique 2 Manu Road 16/08/06 20+ Amazonia Lodge 17/08/06-18/08/06, 10+ Manu 19/08/06-20/08/06

441.  Solitary Cacique 1 Amazonia Lodge 17/08/06

442.  Troupial 1 Manu         20/08/06

443.  Yellow-winged Blackbird       10+ Huacarpay Cusco 12/08/06-13/08/06

444.  Yellow-hooded Blackbird 1 Pantanos de Villa  Lima 08/08/06

445.  Peruvian Meadowlark 1 Pucusana Lima       08/08/06, 10+ San Pedro 22/08/06 and 26/08/06, 20+ Lachay 27/08/06

   446. Scrub Blackbird 1 Pantanos de Villa Lima      08/08/06

   447. Shiny Cowbird 6+ Lima 08/08/06, 1 Lima 26/08/06

    448. Giant Cowbird 50+ Madre de Dios River 18/08/06