Norfolk Birders

Norfolk Birdwatching and beyond!

Trip Report to the Pantanal of Brazil by Sue Bryan

September 29th – October 7th 2018

Sue Bryan

Dee Hamilton

Marlon Mendes



I have always wanted to see a Jaguar in the wild and so made enquiries from several former guides and companies that I have travelled with before. After taking advice I realised that I could do a ‘quick’ trip to The Pantanal in Brazil and also add a couple of other target species that have long been gaps on my bird and mammal list. I also wanted to see Giant Anteater, Giant River Otter, Agami Heron and Hyacinth Macaw. Anything else I saw I considered a bonus since I have been to Brazil twice before and had birded the region in Bolivia not far from The Pantanal. I stayed in various lodges along the Transpantaneira Road that provided boats to take me to the various locations that were necessary to see my target species. Thanks must go to Gunnar Engblom of Kolibri expeditions, Eduardo Ormaeche for help and advice and Marlon Mendes who acted as my guide and driver as well as Dee Hamilton for keeping me company.


Guide/Driver Marlon Mendes




Sept 29th   Norwich - Amsterdam -Sao Paulo - Cuiaba


Sept 30th    Cuiaba - Pousada Piuval


Oct 1st      Pousada Piuval - Mato Grosso


Oct 2nd    Mato Grosso – Jaguar Ecological Reserve

Oct 3rd    Jaguar Ecological Reserve


Oct 4th    Jaguar Ecological Reserve - Rio Claro Lodge


Oct 5th    Rio Claro Lodge - Pousada Piuval


Oct 6th    Pousada Piuval – Cuiaba - Sao Paulo - Amsterdam


Oct 7th    Amsterdam - Norwich




International flights (return) Norwich to Sao Paulo on KLM cost £788


Internal flights (return) Sao Paulo to Cuiaba plus accommodation in lodges (full board), vehicle and driver/guide and boat trips cost £2551




No visa required for UK citizens




I ordered £100 equivalent of Brazilian Reals using Sainsbury’s bank online before I left home but brought £40 of this back which Sainsbury’s bank took back.




Very hot and sunny every day except one morning of rain.




The Pantanal is an immense tropical wetland located mainly in western Brazil's Mato Grosso do Sul state. With a total area of almost 195 000 square kilometres (or 75 000 square miles), the Pantanal is the largest wetland in the world.


Daily Log


29th September


I flew from Norwich Airport to Amsterdam and onto Sao Paulo where I met up with Dee. Together we flew to Cuiaba where we were picked up by Marlon who took us to a hotel near the airport for the night


30th September


We were up at 6am and after breakfast Marlon drove us to Livramento where we stopped to record our first bird species. Many were familiar to me as I have birded near the region before in both Brazil and in Bolivia. Ruddy Ground Dove, Turkey Vulture, Great Kiskadee, Snowy Egret, Toco Toucan, Sayaca Tanager, Streaked Flycatcher, Southern Lapwing, Palm Tanager were all common species that I have seen many times before but were good to see again in the warmth of a South American country. It was good to be back in a country where birds are in a high density and there were a lot to look at. I was kept busy writing as well as keeping my eyes peeled for something that might look unfamiliar to me.

                                                       Blue-crowned Trogon

                                                                    Streaked Flycatcher
A Blue-crowned Trogon flew in as we played a Ferruginous Pygmy Owl tape as well as an owl itself. A Black-throated Saltator added itself to my world list as I admired Yellow-chevroned Parakeet, Masked Tityra, Silver-beaked Tanager and Pileated Finch. A Swallow-tailed Kite flew over as we added Buff-throated Saltator and Golden-collared Macaw

                                                   Golden–collared Macaw

                                                                 Rufous Casiornis

We crossed the road to investigate the possibility of buying some drinks and watched a Rufous-bellied Thrush and a Nanday Parakeet, another world tick for me. Purplish Jay, Yellow-headed Caracara and Blue-black Grassquit were also seen. We drove on a bit further and stopped at a suitable point to watch again, adding Black Nunbird, Variegated Flycatcher, Grey Elaenia, Masked Gnatcatcher, Lesser Seedfinch, Rufous-browed Peppershrike, Rufous Casornis and Purple-throated Euphonia.


A Black-throated Mango and a White-winged Piculet were in the trees the other side of the road and a Chestnut-bellied Conebill gave us a hard time before we saw it properly. I the trees further back we saw a Chaco Chacalaca. We motored on stopping once more to add Roadside Hawk, Barred Antshrike, Snail Kite and Jabiru wading around in water at the side of the road.


We arrived at Pocone the start of The Pantanal and last town before the start of the Transpantaneira Road. We weren’t to have much more travel on a tarmaced road before we hit the track and the famous wooden bridges that lead to The Pantanal.  It's 147 km long and crosses no less than 122 wooden bridges.


Eventually we arrived at Posada Piuval which was to be our lodge for the first night. We booked in and had lunch before setting off in the lodge’s vehicle around the tracks of the forest behind the lodge.

                                               Pousada Piuval


Around the lodge we watched Whistling Heron, Savannah Hawk, Greater Rhea, Monk Parakeet, White-eyed Parakeet Yellow-billed Tern, Capped Heron and Cocoi Heron all from the luxury of the lodge overlooking the wetland surrounding it. After lunch Marlon drove us around the tracks and we noted Muscocy Duck, Black-necked Stilt, White-rumped Swallow, Red-crested Cardinal and Spotted Sandpiper. There were birds everywhere.


A Common Tody-flycatcher posed as did other wildlife including a Crab-eating Fox and a Black Tegu which was about 2 metres long. Birds came thick and fast as we added Little Woodpecker, Red-billed Scythebill, Crested Oropendola before I spotted a roosting Great Horned Owl. It really didn’t want its photo taken though unlike the Red-legged Seriema that posed for us. Striated Heron, Grey-necked Woodrail, Rufescent Tiger Heron all posed before we worked for Chestnut-eared Aracari, narrow-billed Woodcreeper, Grey-crested Cacholote and the most difficult of them all Undulated Tinamou which gave us the run-around hiding in the understory.

                                        Common Tody-Flycatcher                                                              

                                                                   Capped Heron



                                                            Greater Rhea

                                                                    Crab-eating Fox

Black Tegu

We drove to the river and walked across a long wooden board walk where we added more birds to our list. The sun was beginning to have its last rays and within the hour we would lose the light but not before we saw Roseate Spoonbill, Blue-throated Piping Guan, Black-collared Hawk, Bare-faced Curassow, Shiny Cowbird, Turquoise-fronted Amazon, Shiny Cowbird, Solitary Cacique, Southern Horned Screamer and Wattled Jacana. We returned to the watch-tower and watched a Black Skimmer skimming as night fell.

                                                                 Pousada Piuval             

                                        Rufescent Tiger Heron (juv)

                                                   Red-billed Scythebill                                              

                                                Chestnut-bellied Guan

                                                       Great Horned Owl

                                                            Black Skimmer

After a delicious evening meal at the lodge we went on a night safari as one of my requests when negotiating my target species for the trip was to see a Giant Anteater.  Marlon drove around on and off the tracks adding Nacunda Nighthawk, Pauraque and a Spot-tailed Nightjar. We rejoined the main track and all of a sudden we realised that we had a Giant Anteater running alongside the vehicle. We stopped to admire it as it crossed the track in front of us before disappearing into the forest. 


1st October 


I was up before dawn and wandered around the lodge grounds to watch dawn break. The bird song was tremendous and I didn’t know where to look first. Soon I had one of my other target species as a pair of Hyacinth Macaws flew right across the open area. It was still much too dark for photography but the spectacle was amazing. I felt so privileged and lucky to be here. My heart will always be based in remote wild places where I can watch birds and animals in peace. I admired the Blue and White Swallows as I went for breakfast.

                                          Dawn breaks at Pousada Piuval                                

                                                        Blue and White Swallow (juv)

After breakfast we boarded the lodge vehicle which took us across the grass until we reached the forest. Muscovy Ducks and American Golden Plover were running around the grass as were a couple of Red-legged Seriemas.

                                                              Muscovy Duck                                                   

                                                         Red-legged Seriema

The lodge driver wasn’t particularly tuned into birds and we seemed to be driving past all the calling birds. We made him stop to give us an opportunity to walk for a while to listen for birds and to take a few photos. We expressed our concern to Marlon and made it clear to him that in future we wanted to use our own vehicle so that we could stop when we wished to.


Once we had got out of the vehicle we were soon watching birds and Dee was taking photos. It was hot and I had to take a few layers of clothing off. We watched Olivaceous Woodcreeper, Pearly-vented Tody Tyrant, Straight-billed Woodcreeper, Thrush-like Wren, Cinnamon-throated Hermit, Grey-headed Tanager, Planato Slaty Antshrike, White-vented Violetear, Epaulet Oriole, Glittering-throated Emerald, Versicoloured Emerald and Fork-tailed Woodnymph. Several of the birds were world ticks for me and so I was delighted. I took photos of a Blue-crowned Trogon and Toco Toucan as well as Amazonian Motmot.

                                                                          Toco Toucan

                                                 Amazonia Motmot

                                               Blue-crowned Trogon                                              

                                                      Bare-faced Curassow

We returned to the lodge as it was now very hot. I took a wonderful swim in the lodge’s swimming pool before lunch and watched the Blue and Yellow Macaws coming and going from their nest in a broken-off tree stump as I was swimming. It was just heavenly! A Rufous-bellied Thrush was running around outside my room as I wandered back to change. I quickly grabbed my camera before it flew off.

                                         Rufous-bellied Thrush

After lunch we packed up and started our journey towards Mato Grosso but we watched Picui Dove, White-headed Marsh Tyrant, Neotropical Cormorant, Wood Stork, Black Vulture, Chopi Blackbird, Bat Falcon, Ashy-headed Greenlet, White-tipped Dove, Cattle Tyrant, Green ibis and Greyish Saltator down at the marsh before we left the reserve as well as taking photos of a Capybara and Wattled Jacana.

                                Sue on the Transpantaneira Road

                                                    Greater Rhea and Chicks

We stopped at the start of the Transpantaneira Road to take the obligatory photo of the famous track with its 122 wooden bridges. It was very hot and the birds were everywhere as we travelled through the dust. We stopped now and again to take photos of some of the common birds along the route. We added White-faced Whistling Duck, Scaly-headed Parrot, Great Rufous Woodcreeper and Orange backed Troupial as well as taking photos of Plumbeous Ibis, Black-collared Hawk, Greater Rhea, Cocoi Heron and Yellow-billed Cardinal.

                                          Cocoi Heron                                                     

                                                             Plumbeous Ibis

                                             Black-collared Hawk                                               

                                                      Scaly-headed Parrot

Chaco Chacalaca                                                          

                                                Yellow-billed Cardinal

                                  Great Rufous Woodcreeper

                                                       Marsh Deer

A small group of Marsh Deer were also nice to see by the roadside. After our evening meal when it had got dark we wandered around the fields at the back of the lodge at Mato Grosso. Dee was keen to go spot-lighting for spiders and snakes. Dee was a keen Herpetologist, particularly snakes. This was an activity that I have not done before at night, but as with most wildlife events I am up for anything! Dee gave me a really powerful torch and off we went. I was staggered at being able to find spiders by their eye-shine. How exciting! We didn’t find any snakes though! We did however find a Little Nightjar and it was so approachable that I took a photo of it using just my iphone.

                                            Little Nightjar

2nd October


We were offered an early morning boat ride from our lodge at Mato Grosso on the Rio Sarare but there was no sign of our guide Marlon. He had overslept. Dee and I paced up and down and as we had no idea which room he was in and I could see our boat ride disappearing. We took photos of Guira Cuckoo, Yellow-rumped Cacique, Ferruginous Pygmy Owl and Black-striped Capuchin whilst we were waiting. Eventually Marlon appeared and we set off down river. There were herons and kingfishers every few metres down the river. It was buzzing with life. We set off in great anticipation with our boatman saying that he knew of a spot for Agami Heron, one of my most sought-after bird targets.

                                               River Sarare

                                                          Guira Cuckoo

                                             Ferruginous Pygmy Owl                                     

                                            Yellow-rumped Cacique

Not long after setting off on the river a Sungrebe swam in front of us as an Anhinga watched us from the riverside as did a Black-capped Donacobius. Ringed Kingfisher watched for its breakfast as a Great Black Hawk sat in riverside trees. A Greater Ani was added to the list as a Green and Rufous Kingfisher sat and posed. We watched a Cinereous-breasted Spinetail and a Great Antshrike in the bushes as we searched for the Agami. All of a sudden the boatman spotted an Agami Heron but failed to point out where he was looking. We waited for the bird to reappear but it was not to be.


A Jabiru stood at the side of the river as we made our way back to breakfast and not long after I spotted an American Pygmy Kingfisher perched on twigs over the river. We were disappointed but it had been a lovely way to start the day.


                                                Black-capped Donacobius

                                                       Ringed Kingfisher

American Pygmy Kingfisher



Back on dry land, Marlon and I birded the fields behind the lodge. It was now searingly hot and we both struggled to stand out in the sun. Dee had stayed behind in the lodge and so Marlon and I sought out the birds that I wanted to see. Top of the list was Helmeted Manakin. Eduardo Ormaech had been advising me and so I had a target list. Marlon and I added Lineated Seedeater, Giant Cowbird and Scaled Dove before crossing over to a small group of trees where we saw Chotoy Spinetail and Greater Thornbird but these were not my required target ticks. Eduardo had told Marlon where to take me so we walked the riverside where we found the Helmeted Manakin. Although I saw the bird well there was far too much vegetation in the way for a photograph. A Squirrel Cuckoo and Brown Capuchin proved a bit of distraction before we added my next tick of Sibilant Sirystes. All of a sudden we were once again distracted by a calling bird. It took ages before either of us got decent views to get any kind of description. After playing a tape of a few possibilities I eventually got a photo and the field guide confirmed it as White-lored Spinetail, the tick that I needed here. We also watched a pair of Barred Antshrikes and a Mato Grosso Antbird.


                                            Chotoy Spinetail                                                                  

                                    Barred Antshrike (m)

                                            White-lored Spinetail                                                     

                                     Mato Grosso Antbird

                                         Black-striped Capuchin                                              

                                     Barred Antshrike (f)

Marlon and I returned to the lodge where the heat was exhausting. I dived into the lodge’s swimming pool to cool off before having lunch.


After lunch we continued along the Transpantaneira road and crossed over numerous wooden bridges or made diversions down into the mud and where the bridges were too unstable. I would hate to be here in the rainy season! We needed the air conditioner on in the vehicle but it soon became apparent all was not well with it and so we had to have the windows open.....not very clever on a dusty track! We had to stop to admire a group of White-lipped Peccaries, which are apparently very aggressive and quite dangerous. A small group of Southern Caracaras proved a bit of distraction too. We added Maguari Stork and Brown-chested Martin to our lists as we limped along the track.

White-lipped Peccary         

                                           Southern Caracara

We arrived at the Jaguar Ecological reserve and picked up our boatman who was going to take us to the Rio Cuiaba for our afternoon boat ride. Dee and I were getting excited as neither of us could wait to see Jaguar, the whole reason for our trip. After a short while steam began pouring out from under the bonnet of our vehicle and we had to stop. It had been obvious for some time that not all was well with the vehicle but it had been exceptionally hot. We waited for a while for the engine to cool down before trying to get a drop of water into the radiator and Marlon fiddled with the air conditioning for a while. The three men all had differing ideas on what to do. Luckily I kept out of the argument! An hour passed and we made another attempt to motor on but more emitting steam dictated our fate. We were now stranded. After a failed attempt at getting a lift to the river it was now too late in the day and we watched helplessly as our vehicle radiator bubbled over and we walked back to one of the bridges that was blocking all traffic (well one tourist minibus) because it was being repaired. It got worse as a recently felled tree had taken down a nest of African Bees and they were not happy as we approached! Aggghhhh..........With little protection we made it to the tourist minibus that was being blocked by the bridge repair and begged the driver to let us in. The driver agreed to take us back to the lodge. We left Marlon with the bubbling vehicle and the boatman came with Dee and myself back to his lodge where he would make arrangements to rescue Marlon.


My birding trips are always full of adventures but now we were stranded without a vehicle. Marlon eventually returned with our very poorly vehicle with a cracked radiator in the middle of nowhere. Dee and I had a discussion as Marlon wanted to keep stopping for the rest of the trip continually re-filling with water. We explained that this was impractical, given the heat and after the lodge owner kindly agreed to take us under his wing for the following day, Marlon agreed to find another vehicle for us. After a night safari where the vehicle once again left us stranded as it overheated, Marlon was despatched back to Cuiaba to fetch a working vehicle. As we had missed our afternoon boat ride the lodge owner promised a full day’s ride on the river the following day instead of just the planned morning. Result!


In failing light a raucous sound was coming from trees behind the lodge. We were delighted to find Hyacinth Macaws coming into roost as well as Turquoise-fronted Amazons.

                                                    Hyacinth Macaw                                                   

                                          Turquoise-fronted Amazon

Passionfruit Mousse


It had been quite a day and I was glad to be safe and sound in the lodge after wondering on several occasions whether we would be sleeping with prowling Jaguars on the track! (there is no mobile phone signal out here!) We even had a treat of Passionfruit Mousse for part of our meal which I fell in love with when I was in Bolivia.

3rd October


With our guide despatched back to Cuiaba, Dee and I jumped into the lodge owner’s vehicle along with his son’s girlfriend after breakfast after admiring a Cattle Tyrant watching our departure.

                                                  Our poorly vehicle                                                                

                                                   Cattle Tyrant

We headed for Porto Jofre and the Rio Cuiaba. Eduardo stopped en route as a Sunbittern was strutting along the track. We also noted a Collared Plover, Rusty-margined Flycatcher and Unicoloured Blackbird. Once in Porto Jofre which was the end of the Transpantaneira Road, Eduarda prepared the boat. Lunches were loaded as were drinks. Dee and I made ourselves comfortable and the awaited day that I had planned for had finally arrived. We were both excited and thrilled as we sped off along the river in the blazing sun.


                                        Eduardo and Eduarda                                                       

                                                Eduarda and Sue

Eduardo knew where to stop along the river as he heard two Jaguars mating. We could just about see some spots behind the vegetation but our views were not good. We sped off once again and waited with another couple of boats but we saw nothing. The boatmen keep in contact with one another via radio and we were soon on our way again. Herons and kingfishers abounded but we were focused on seeing a Jaguar.


A Crane Hawk fascinated us as it probed for prey as we also took photos of Blue-throated Guan.


                                                     Crane Hawk                                                       

                                              Blue-throated Guan
We admired a Black Skimmer and chick as well as a Yellow-billed Tern on a river island as we sped along in our search

                                                   Rio Cuiaba                                     

                                                         Black Skimmer

We pulled into the side of the river and there sleeping on a log was a female Jaguar. I could have cried as it was just so beautiful. Dee and I were thrilled as we clicked away with our cameras waiting for the Jaguar to wake up which after about half an hour it did. After several yawns it started to walk along the riverbank. I have never taken so many pictures of a single animal and was completely overcome with emotion of the sheer beauty of the animal as it hunted for prey.








We watched the Jaguar for nearly two hours as it walked along the top of the riverbank until it noticed two Capybaras halfway down the bank. All of a sudden it leapt down on top of them narrowly missing them. They swam off and the Jaguar continued swimming along the river alongside the bank. We kept our distance as we admired the animal. Eventually we left it in peace. It had been an amazing encounter and all the previous day’s angst forgotten.

Giant River Otter


Eduarda took us to a quiet spot in the shade where we could have lunch. A few metres away we watched a pair of Giant River Otter devouring catfish.


In the evening Eduardo took me to a local spot where he knew there to be an Agami Heron. Dee had remained behind as he didn’t want to come. We crept through the undergrowth but unfortunately the bird heard us coming and I was unsighted behind Eduardo and it ran before I could lay my eyes on it. I was gutted that I didn’t see it. Eduardo said that we would try again in the morning.


After our evening meal Marlon arrived back at the lodge with another vehicle.


What a day! How lucky and privileged I felt. I love South America and its wildlife.


4th October


After yesterday’s exciting day we awoke to torrential rain. It was quite clear to all that we were going nowhere. I was disappointed as I so wanted to see the Agami Heron, where Eduardo had seen it yesterday. Worse was to follow as soon as Marlon appeared he looked dreadful, quite clearly not well at all and we sent him back to bed. It really wasn’t his trip! Dee and I retreated to our rooms whilst the thunder and lightning storm raged around us. The electricity was knocked out and we lost all communication ability too. Luckily I had charged my phone, tablet and camera, so I spent the morning processing my photos as well as doing my checklist and diary pages. It was good to catch up.

Rio Claro lodge



After lunch we thanked the lodge owner for looking after us so well, showing us 3 Jaguars and Marlon dragged himself from his sickbed to drive us on a slippery track to the Rio Claro lodge. It was certainly very wet underfoot.


We survived the slippery journey in the rain to the entrance to the Rio Claro lodge. It had now stopped raining and we searched for more Giant Anteaters without success. A little further on a huge snake was slithering across the track. Dee leapt out of the vehicle in an attempt to catch it before it slithered down the bank. He tried to maintain a hold on its tail. Marlon and I were shocked at what was happening as it had all happened so quickly. Dee needed help to keep hold of it but neither Marlon or myself were very keen to help!




I have to say I wasn’t sad when the snake got away. We continued down the track and watched a Narrow-billed Woodcreeper and finally the sought-after Long-tailed Dove. After booking in to the lodge we had a disagreement with the lodge as they seemed to want to curtail our agreed booked boat rides. Eduardo Ormeache had advised me this was where our best chance of seeing Agami Heron was and so I was doggedly determined I was not going to be short-changed. I negotiated with the lodge owner and left Marlon no doubt that I had not come all this way to be let down now.

                                                Rio Claro

                                                          Sue on the Rio Claro

Half an hour later we boarded the boat and sped off down river watching Amazon Kingfishers, Snowy Egrets, Black-crowned Night Heron and a Roseate Spoonbill. Lurking under the trees over-hanging the river was an Agami Heron but as soon as it saw us it ran away and hid. It was a tickable view but neither of us had managed a photograph of this very shy, pretty heron.

                                          Roseate Spoonbill                                                       

                                                     Snowy Egret

                                      Amazon Kingfisher (m)                                        

                                                Amazon Kingfisher (f)

We continued to search and eventually in a quiet channel the Water Hyacinths choked the water. We switched off the engine and in silence paddled our way further up. There along the bank was an Agami Heron walking quietly along the bank. We slowly edged our way along. You could have heard a pin drop!


It was a very pretty bird and once again we counted our blessings. My fourth target of the trip achieved.

                                                         Agami Heron

                                            Black-crowned Night Heron (juv)

Dee and I were both delighted at not only seeing the bird but seeing it so well and so close as we almost stopped breathing to keep very quiet. I knew how elusive these birds could be as I have done many trips to South America and this was heron that had always managed to elude me. Dee thanked me for my dogged determination for making sure that we saw this bird and in turn I need to thank Gunnar and Eduardo for making it happen.


After we had watched the Agami for some time it walked back into the vegetation and we turned the boat around. We quietly made our way back and stopped as a Band-tailed Antbird posed for the camera. The light was very poor today as we were having very light intermittent showers. I struggled as I pushed the ISO up to get a fast enough shutter speed. I envied Dee’s better camera equipment!

                                              Band-tailed Antbird                                              

                                                      Little Cuckoo

Further up the river I spotted a bird in a riverside bush that flew across the river as we approached. I kept an eye on it and relocated it sitting on a branch. It was a Little Cuckoo. With several world ticks today I was a happy bunny as we got back to the lodge. It wasn’t far off being dark and after an evening meal and walking back to my room I spotted two women kneeling down not far from it. Being the nosy sort I joined them to see one of the women taking photos of a Tarantula Spider. The small gap under my bedroom door now bothered me just a bit!!! This particular beast was nearly the size of my hand!


5th October


We were up at dawn but Marlon was still not very well. We watched a Rufous-tailed Jacamar and a Rusty-fronted Tody Flycatcher before returning for breakfast. After breakfast Dee decided not to join us and so Marlon and I drove up the track to an area of scrub that held a lifer for me that Eduardo had

mentioned. We stopped to admire Grassland Sparrow, Little Woodpecker and Long-tailed Dove before we got out of the vehicle to walk the scrubby area. We soon located the Green-backed Becard but it was not keen to have its photo taken.

                                          Rufous-tailed Jacamar                                                                

                                                    Hyacinth Macaws

                                         Green-backed Becard                                     

                                        Long-tailed Dove

Marlon was still not well and was struggling in the heat. He wanted to return to the lodge. I felt a bit frustrated as there was still good birding to be had but without a driver/guide I was a bit hampered and so spent the next few hours wandering around the lodge grounds whilst waiting for lunch as well as contacting Eduardo who made a few suggestions for more birds that I could reasonably get in the time that I had left. I took pictures of Yacare Caiman, Savannah Hawk, Blue-crowned Parakeet Nanday Parakeet and Bare-faced Ibis.

                                                Little Woodpecker                                    

                                           Savannah Hawk

                                                   Yacare Caiman                                   

                                 Blue-crowned Parakeet

                                          Nanday Parakeet                     

                                                            Bare-faced Ibis

After lunch Marlon had recovered enough to drive us back to Pousada Piuval. We checked back into the lodge and armed with a list of species that Eduardo had suggested we used our own vehicle and drove back into the forest behind the lodge. Using our own vehicle we could now stop where we wanted and added a few more species to our list, including a few lifers. We saw Pale-crested Woodpecker, Plumbeous Kite, White-wedged Piculet, White Woodpecker, Large-billed Tern, Fork-tailed Flycatcher and Stripe-necked Tody Tyrant. We reached the river once again but still failed to see the rail but added one last bird for the trip list a Striped Cuckoo.

                                               Pale-crested Woodpecker                                         

                                           Plumbeous Kite
White-wedged Piculet                                   

Striped Cuckoo

                                   Fork-tailed Flycatcher                                            

White Woodpecker

6th October  


After breakfast we began the journey back along the Transpantaneira Road to Cuiaba where Dee and I thanked Marlon and caught our midday flight to Sao Paulo. Once in Sao Paulo I thanked Dee for his company and we parted ways. I flew overnight to Amsterdam.


7th October


I flew from Amsterdam back to Norwich.  


Species List


  1.  Greater Rhea             Rhea Americana 30/09/2018 Pousada Piuval Pantanal
  2. Undulated Tinamou    Crypturellus undulatus            30/09/2018     Pousada Piuval Pantanal
  3. Red-winged Tinamou Rhynchotus rufescens 30/09/2018     Transpantaneira Road Pantanal
  4. Southern Screamer Chauna torquata 30/09/2018     Pousada Piuval Pantanal
  5. White-faced Whistling Duck Dendrocygna viduata   01/10/2018     Pousada Piuval Pantanal
  6. Black-bellied Whistling Duck Dendrocygna autumnalis        30/09/2018     Pousada Piuval Pantanal
  7. Muscovy Duck Cairina moschata        30/09/2018     Pousada Piuval Pantanal
  8. Chaco Chachalaca  Ortalis canicollis 30/09/2018     Livramento Pantanal
  9. Chestnut-bellied Guan            Penelope ochrogaster 30/09/2018     Pousada Piuval Pantanal
  10. Blue-throated Piping Guan  Pipile cumanensis          30/09/2018     Pousada Piuval Pantanal
  11. Bare-faced Curassow Crax fasciolata            30/09/2018     Pousada Piuval Pantanal
  12. Wood Stork Mycteria americana       01/10/2018     Pousada Piuval Pantanal
  13. Maguari Stork Ciconia maguari         02/10/2018     Campo Jofre Pantanal
  14. Jabiru  Jabiru mycteria           30/09/2018     Livramento Pantanal
  15. Plumbeous Ibis            Theristicus caerulescens         30/09/2018     Transpantaneira Road Pantanal
  16. Green Ibis Mesembrinibis cayennensis          01/10/2018     Pousada Piuval Pantanal
  17. Bare-faced Ibis            Phimosus infuscatus    30/09/2018     Transpantaneira Road Pantanal
  18. Roseate Spoonbill Platalea ajaja        30/09/2018     Pousada Piuval Pantanal
  19. Rufescent Tiger Heron            Tigrisoma lineatum    30/09/2018     Transpantaneira Road Pantanal
  20. Agami Heron Agamia agami  04/10/2018     Rio Claro Pantanal
  21. Black-crowned Night Heron  (Nycticorax nycticorax)  04/10//2018  Rio Claro Pantanal
  22. Striated Heron            Butorides striata         30/09/2018     Pousada Piuval Pantanal
  23. Western Cattle Egret  Bubulcus ibis   30/09/2018     Livramento Pantanal
  24. Cocoi Heron Ardea cocoi        30/09/2018     Pousada Piuval Pantanal
  25. Great Egret  Ardea alba         30/09/2018     Pousada Piuval Pantanal
  26. Capped Heron Pilherodius pileatus    30/09/2018     Transpantaneira Road Pantanal
  27. Whistling Heron  Syrigma sibilatrix    30/09/2018     Pousada Piuval Pantanal
  28. Snowy Egret  Egretta thula     30/09/2018     Livramento Pantanal
  29. Neotropic Cormorant             Phalacrocorax brasilianus      01/10/2018     Pousada Piuval Pantanal
  30. Anhinga  Anhinga anhinga      02/10/2018     Mato Grosso
  31. Turkey Vulture            Cathartes aura            30/09/2018     Sao Paulo
  32. Black Vulture  Coragyps atratus         01/10/2018     Pousada Piuval Pantanal
  33. Swallow-tailed Kite Elanoides forficatus        30/09/2018     Livramento Pantanal
  34. Plumbeous Kite           Ictinia plumbea           05/10/2018     Pousada Piuval Pantanal
  35. Black-collared Hawk  Busarellus nigricollis   30/09/2018     Pousada Piuval Pantanal
  36. Snail Kite  Rostrhamus sociabilis        30/09/2018     Livramento Pantanal
  37. Crane Hawk  Geranospiza caerulescens        30/09/2018     Transpantaneira Road Pantanal
  38. Savanna Hawk Buteogallus meridionalis        30/09/2018     Pousada Piuval Pantanal
  39. Great Black Hawk  Buteogallus urubitinga    02/10/2018     Mato Grosso
  40. Roadside Hawk           Rupornis magnirostris            30/09/2018     Livramento Pantanal
  41. Red-legged Seriema Cariama cristata           30/09/2018     Pousada Piuval Pantanal
  42. Sunbittern  Eurypyga helias    03/10/2018     Rio Cuiaba Pantanal
  43. Sungrebe  Heliornis fulica      02/10/2018     Mato Grosso
  44. Grey-necked Wood Rail              Aramides cajaneus 30/09/2018    Pousada Piuval Pantanal
  45. Limpkin  Aramus guarauna    30/09/2018     Transpantaneira Road Pantanal
  46. Black-necked Stilt  Himantopus mexicanus    30/09/2018     Pousada Piuval Pantanal
  47. Southern Lapwing  Vanellus chilensis 30/09/2018     Livramento Pantanal
  48. American Golden Plover Pluvialis dominica  01/10/2018     Pousada Piuval Pantanal
  49. Collared Plover           Charadrius collaris 03/10/2018          Rio Cuiaba Pantanal
  50. Wattled Jacana           Jacana jacana 30/09/2018     Pousada Piuval Pantanal
  51. Spotted Sandpiper Actitis macularius 30/09/2018     Pousada Piuval Pantanal
  52. Black Skimmer            Rynchops niger           30/09/2018     Pousada Piuval Pantanal
  53. Yellow-billed Tern Sternula superciliaris       30/09/2018     Pousada Piuval Pantanal
  54. Large-billed Tern  Phaetusa simplex  05/10/2018     Pousada Piuval Pantanal
  55. Picazuro Pigeon   Patagioenas picazuro         30/09/2018     Livramento Pantanal
  56. Pale-vented Pigeon     Patagioenas cayennensis        02/10/2018     Mato Grosso
  57. Scaled Dove    Columbina squammata          02/10/2018     Mato Grosso
  58. Ruddy Ground Dove  Columbina talpacoti     30/09/2018     Sao Paulo
  59. Picui Ground Dove  Columbina picui  01/10/2018     Pousada Piuval Pantanal
  60. Long-tailed Ground Dove  Uropelia campestris         04/10/2018     Rio Claro Pantanal
  61. White-tipped Dove  Leptotila verreauxi         01/10/2018     Pousada Piuval Pantanal
  62. Guira Cuckoo  Guira guira      30/09/2018     Pocone
  63. Greater Ani     Crotophaga major      02/10/2018     Mato Grosso
  64. Smooth-billed Ani Crotophaga ani     30/09/2018     Transpantaneira Road Pantanal
  65. Striped Cuckoo            Tapera naevia 05/10/2018     Pousada Piuval Pantanal
  66. Little Cuckoo   Coccycua minuta        04/10/2018     Rio Claro Pantanal
  67. Squirrel Cuckoo  Piaya cayana           02/10/2018     Mato Grosso
  68. Great Horned Owl  Bubo virginianus 30/09/2018     Pousada Piuval Pantanal
  69. Ferruginous Pygmy Owl  Glaucidium brasilianum     30/09/2018     Livramento Pantanal
  70. Nacunda Nighthawk    Chordeiles nacunda    30/09/2018     Pousada Piuval Pantanal
  71. Pauraque  Nyctidromus albicollis       30/09/2018     Pousada Piuval Pantanal
  72. Little Nightjar Setopagis Parvula  011018 Mato Grosso
  73. Spot-tailed Nightjar Hydropsalis maculicaudus         30/09/2018     Pousada Piuval Pantanal
  74. Cinnamon-throated Hermit Phaethornis nattereri    01/10/2018     Pousada Piuval Pantanal
  75. White-vented Violetear  Colibri serrirostris 01/10/2018       Pousada Piuval Pantanal
  76. Black-throated Mango            Anthracothorax nigricollis  30/09/2018         Livramento Pantanal
  77. Fork-tailed Woodnymph  Thalurania furcata 01/10/2018     Pousada Piuval Pantanal
  78. Versicolored Emerald             Amazilia versicolor     01/10/2018     Pousada Piuval Pantanal
  79. Glittering-throated Emerald   Amazilia fimbriata      01/10/2018     Pousada Piuval Pantanal
  80. Blue-crowned Trogon             Trogon curucui            30/09/2018     Livramento Pantanal
  81. American Pygmy Kingfisher   Chloroceryle aenea    02/10/2018     Mato Grosso
  82. Green-and-rufous Kingfisher Chloroceryle inda       02/10/2018     Mato Grosso
  83. Amazon Kingfisher      Chloroceryle amazona            30/09/2018     Transpantaneira Road Pantanal
  84. Ringed Kingfisher        Megaceryle torquata  02/10/2018     Mato Grosso
  85. Amazonian Motmot    Momotus momota      01/10/2018     Pousada Piuval Pantanal
  86. Rufous-tailed Jacamar  Galbula ruficauda     05/10/2018     Rio Claro Lodge Pantanal
  87. Black Nunbird Monasa atra   30/09/2018     Livramento Pantanal
  88. Chestnut-eared Aracari  Pteroglossus castanotis       30/09/2018     Pousada Piuval Pantanal
  89. Toco Toucan    Ramphastos toco 30/09/2018            Livramento Pantanal
  90. White-wedged Piculet  Picumnus albosquamatus     30/09/2018     Livramento Pantanal
  91. White Woodpecker     Melanerpes candidus 05/10/2018     Pousada Piuval Pantanal
  92. Little Woodpecker      Veniliornis passerinus 30/09/2018     Pousada Piuval Pantanal
  93. Campo Flicker             Colaptes campestris   30/09/2018     Pousada Piuval Pantanal
  94. Pale-crested Woodpecker  Celeus lugubris    05/10/2018     Pousada Piuval Pantanal
  95. Southern Crested Caracara Caracara plancus           30/09/2018     Livramento Pantanal
  96. Yellow-headed Caracara  Milvago chimachima        30/09/2018     Livramento Pantanal
  97. Bat Falcon  Falco rufigularis   01/10/2018     Pousada Piuval Pantanal
  98. Monk Parakeet           Myiopsitta monachus 30/09/2018     Pousada Piuval Pantanal
  99. Yellow-chevroned Parakeet   Brotogeris chiriri         30/09/2018     Livramento Pantanal
  100. Scaly-headed Parrot  Pionus maximiliani       01/10/2018     Pousada Piuval Pantanal
  101. Turquoise-fronted Amazon     Amazona aestiva         30/09/2018     Pousada Piuval Pantanal
  102. Hyacinth Macaw       Anodorhynchus hyacinthinus  01/10/2018     Pousada Piuval Pantanal
  103. Peach-fronted Parakeet       Eupsittula aurea          30/09/2018     Livramento Pantanal
  104. Nanday Parakeet      Aratinga nenday         30/09/2018     Livramento Pantanal
  105. Golden-collared Macaw  Primolius auricollis          30/09/2018     Livramento Pantanal
  106. Blue-and-yellow Macaw  Ara ararauna       01/10/2018     Pousada Piuval Pantanal
  107. White-eyed Parakeet  Psittacara leucophthalmus   30/09/2018     Pousada Piuval Pantanal
  108. Rufous Hornero        Furnarius rufus            30/09/2018     Livramento Pantanal
  109. Chotoy Spinetail        Schoeniophylax phryganophilus         02/10/2018     Mato Grosso
  110. Pale-breasted Spinetail        Synallaxis albescens    30/09/2018     Transpantaneira Road Pantanal
  111. Cinereous-breasted Spinetail           Synallaxis hypospodia 02/10/2018     Mato Grosso
  112. White-lored Spinetail           Synallaxis albilora       02/10/2018     Mato Grosso
  113. Yellow-chinned Spinetail  Certhiaxis cinnamomeus 01/10/2018    Pousada Piuval Pantanal
  114. Greater Thornbird Phacellodomus ruber     02/10/2018     Mato Grosso
  115. Grey-crested Cacholote        Pseudoseisura unirufa            30/09/2018     Pousada Piuval Pantanal
  116. Olivaceous Woodcreeper  Sittasomus griseicapillus 01/10/2018   Pousada Piuval Pantanal
  117. Strong-billed Woodcreeper  Xiphocolaptes promeropirhynchus     01/10/2018 Pousada Piuval Pantanal
  118. Great Rufous Woodcreeper             Xiphocolaptes major 01/10/2018 Pousada Piuval Pantanal
  119. Narrow-billed Woodcreeper  Lepidocolaptes angustirostris 30/09/2018 Pousada Piuval Pantanal
  120. Red-billed Scythebill  Campylorhamphus trochilirostris 30/09/2018 Pousada Piuval Pantanal
  121. Barred Antshrike  Thamnophilus doliatus 30/09/2018 Livramento Pantanal
  122. Planalto Slaty Antshrike        Thamnophilus pelzelni            01/10/2018 Pousada Piuval Pantanal
  123. Great Antshrike  Taraba major 02/10/2018 Mato Grosso
  124. Mato Grosso Antbird            Cercomacra melanaria          02/10/2018     Mato Grosso
  125. Band-tailed Antbird  Hypocnemoides maculicauda 04/10/2018     Rio Claro Pantanal
  126. Grey Elaenia             Myiopagis caniceps    30/09/2018     Livramento Pantanal
  127. Plain Inezia   Inezia inornata            01/10/2018     Pousada Piuval Pantanal
  128. Stripe-necked Tody-tyrant    Hemitriccus striaticollis          05/10/2018     Pousada Piuval Pantanal
  129. Pearly-vented Tody-tyrant  Hemitriccus margaritaceiventer 01/10/2018 Pousada Piuval Pantanal
  130. Rusty-fronted Tody-flycatcher Poecilotriccus latirostris 05/10/2018 Rio Claro Lodge Pantanal
  131. Common Tody-flycatcher  Todirostrum cinereum 30/09/2018      Transpantaneira Road Pantanal
  132. Grey Monjita            Xolmis cinereus           30/09/2018     Transpantaneira Road Pantanal
  133. Black-backed Water Tyrant Fluvicola albiventer     30/09/2018     Transpantaneira Road Pantanal
  134. White-headed Marsh Tyrant Arundinicola leucocephala    01/10/2018 Pousada Piuval Pantanal
  135. Cattle Tyrant  Machetornis rixosa   01/10/2018     Pousada Piuval Pantanal
  136. Rusty-margined Flycatcher  Myiozetetes cayanensis          03/10/2018     Rio Cuiaba Pantanal
  137. Great Kiskadee         Pitangus sulphuratus   30/09/2018     Sao Paulo
  138. Lesser Kiskadee        Philohydor lictor         30/09/2018     Livramento Pantanal
  139. Streaked Flycatcher Myiodynastes maculatus        30/09/2018     Livramento Pantanal
  140. Variegated Flycatcher  Empidonomus varius          30/09/2018     Livramento Pantanal
  141. Tropical Kingbird      Tyrannus melancholicus         30/09/2018     Livramento Pantanal
  142. Fork-tailed Flycatcher  Tyrannus savanna 30/09/2018        Transpantaneira Road Pantanal
  143. Sibilant Sirystes         Sirystes sibilator 02/10/2018  Mato Grosso
  144. Rufous Casiornis       Casiornis rufus            30/09/2018 Livramento Pantanal
  145. Short-crested Flycatcher  Myiarchus ferox 30/09/2018      Livramento Pantanal
  146. Helmeted Manakin   Antilophia galeata 02/10/2018          Mato Grosso
  147. Black-crowned Tityra  Tityra inquisitor        30/09/2018     Livramento Pantanal
  148. Masked Tityra  Tityra semifasciata  30/09/2018     Livramento Pantanal
  149. Green-backed Becard           Pachyramphus viridis  05/10/2018     Rio Claro Lodge Pantanal
  150. Rufous-browed Peppershrike           Cyclarhis gujanensis 30/09/2018 Livramento Pantanal
  151. Ashy-headed Greenlet          Hylophilus pectoralis  01/10/2018     Pousada Piuval Pantanal
  152. Purplish Jay   Cyanocorax cyanomelas         30/09/2018     Livramento Pantanal
  153. White-winged Swallow         Tachycineta albiventer           30/09/2018     Livramento Pantanal
  154. White-rumped Swallow        Tachycineta leucorrhoa          30/09/2018     Pousada Piuval Pantanal
  155. Brown-chested Martin         Progne tapera 02/10/2018     Campo Jofre Pantanal
  156. Blue-and-white Swallow  Notiochelidon cyanoleuca           02/10/2018     Campo Jofre Pantanal
  157. Black-capped Donacobius  Donacobius atricapilla  30/09/2018     Transpantaneira Road Pantanal
  158. Thrush-like Wren   Campylorhynchus turdinus        01/10/2018     Pousada Piuval Pantanal
  159. Masked Gnatcatcher  Polioptila dumicola 30/09/2018       Livramento Pantanal
  160. Rufous-bellied Thrush           Turdus rufiventris       30/09/2018     Livramento Pantanal
  161. House Sparrow         Passer domesticus 30/09/2018          Pocone
  162. Purple-throated Euphonia  Euphonia chlorotica      30/09/2018     Livramento Pantanal
  163. Grassland Sparrow  Ammodramus humeralis         05/10/2018     Rio Claro Lodge Pantanal
  164. Crested Oropendola  Psarocolius decumanus         30/09/2018     Pousada Piuval Pantanal
  165. Solitary Cacique        Cacicus solitaries 30/09/2018            Pousada Piuval Pantanal
  166. Yellow-rumped Cacique  Cacicus cela         04/10/2018     Rio Claro Pantanal
  167. Orange-backed Troupial  Icterus croconotus           01/10/2018     Pousada Piuval Pantanal
  168. Epaulet Oriole          Icterus cayanensis       01/10/2018     Pousada Piuval Pantanal
  169. Giant Cowbird           Molothrus oryzivorus  02/10/2018     Mato Grosso
  170. Shiny Cowbird           Molothrus bonariensis            30/09/2018     Pousada Piuval Pantanal
  171. Scarlet-headed Blackbird Amblyramphus holosericeus 30/09/2018 Transpantaneira Road Pantanal
  172. Chopi Blackbird  Gnorimopsar chopi           01/10/2018     Pousada Piuval Pantanal
  173. Greyish Baywing  Agelaioides badius           30/09/2018     Pocone
  174. Unicolored Blackbird            Agelasticus cyanopus  03/10/2018     Rio Cuiaba Pantanal
  175. Red-crested Cardinal            Paroaria coronate 30/09/2018           Pousada Piuval Pantanal
  176. Yellow-billed Cardinal          Paroaria capitata        30/09/2018     Transpantaneira Road Pantanal
  177. Grey-headed Tanager          Eucometis penicillata 01/10/2018     Pousada Piuval Pantanal
  178. Silver-beaked Tanager         Ramphocelus carbo    30/09/2018     Livramento Pantanal
  179. Sayaca Tanager        Thraupis sayaca          30/09/2018     Livramento Pantanal
  180. Palm Tanager           Thraupis palmarum    30/09/2018     Livramento Pantanal
  181. Chestnut-vented Conebill     Conirostrum speciosum          30/09/2018     Livramento Pantanal
  182. Grey Pileated Finch Coryphospingus pileatus         30/09/2018     Livramento Pantanal
  183. Red Pileated Finch    Coryphospingus cucullatus     30/09/2018     Livramento Pantanal
  184. Saffron Finch             Sicalis flaveola            30/09/2018     Livramento Pantanal
  185. Buff-throated Saltator          Saltator maximus        30/09/2018     Livramento Pantanal
  186. Greyish Saltator        Saltator coerulescens 01/10/2018     Pousada Piuval Pantanal
  187. Black-throated Saltator        Saltator atricollis        30/09/2018     Livramento Pantanal
  188. Blue-black Grassquit             Volatinia jacarina       30/09/2018     Livramento Pantanal
  189. Rusty-collared Seedeater  Sporophila collaris         30/09/2018     Transpantaneira Road Pantanal
  190. Lined Seedeater        Sporophila lineola       02/10/2018     Mato Grosso
  191. Chestnut-bellied Seed Finch             Oryzoborus angolensis            30/09/2018     Livramento Pantanal
  192. Bananaquit   Coereba flaveola        30/09/2018     Livramento Pantanal




  1. Giant Anteater Myrmecophaga tridactyla 30/09/2018 Pousada Piuval
  2. Black-striped Capuchin Cebus libidinosus 01/10/2018 Mato Grosso
  3. Jaguar Panthera onca 03/10/2018 Jaguar Ecological Reserve
  4. Crab-eating Fox Cerdocyon thous 30/09/2018 Pousada Piuval
  5. Giant Otter Pteronura brasiliensis  03/10/2018 Jaguar Ecological Reserve
  6. White-lipped Peccary Tayassu pecari            02/10/2018 Jaguar Ecological Reserve
  7. Marsh Deer Blastocerus dichotomus  01/10/2018 Mato Grosso
  8. South American Red Brocket  Mazama Americana 30/09/2018 Pousada Piuval
  9. South American Brown Brocket Mazama gouazoubira 01/10/2018 Mato Grosso
  10. Capybara Hydrochoerus hydrochaeris 01/10/2018 Pousada Piuval
  11. Azara's Agouti Dasyprocta azarae 01/10/2018 Mato Grosso